纯棉及棉混纺织物特殊微绉风格面料生产工艺探讨  

Discussion on the production technology of special crepe style fabric of pure cotton and cotton blended fabric

作　　者：陈森 王玉霞 徐惠栋 黄进华 刘萍 CHEN Sen;WANG Yuxia;XU Huidong;HUANG Jinhua;LIU Ping(Jiangsu Lianfa Institute of Advanced Textile Technology,Nantong 226600,China;Nantong Lianfa Printing&Dyeing Co.Ltd.,Nantong 226600,China)

机构地区：[1]江苏联发高端纺织技术研究院,江苏南通226600 [2]南通联发印染有限公司,江苏南通226600

出　　处：《染整技术》2025年第2期25-28,31,共5页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

摘　　要：探讨了棉及其混纺织物细腻微绉风格布料的研发生产技术。以60s全棉及经向40s棉、纬向锦(70 D)包氨纶(40 D)纱线为原料,阐述了织物的坯布规格设计及稳定的染整工艺生产流程,并通过简单的全面试验法、均匀设计法及正交试验设计法分析关键染整工序的控制点,确定碱缩、砂洗、气流水洗工序的工艺技术参数,研发出两种全新的、细腻自然的肌理性绉类面料。The production technology of mild crepe style of cotton and its blended fabric was discussed.With 60s cotton,a yarn made of 40s cotton in the warp direction and 70 D nylon wrapped in spandex(40 D)in the weft direction as raw materials,the grey fabric specification design and stable dyeing and finishing process of cotton and its blended fabric are expounded.The control points of key finishing process are analyzed by simple comprehensive test method,uniform de-sign method and orthogonal test design method.The technical parameters of alkali shrinkage,sand washing and air washing are determined to develop two new kinds of delicate and natural muscular crepe fabric.

关 键 词：碱缩 砂洗 气流水洗 定形 工艺 微绉面料 

分 类 号：TS190.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]