传统豆染技法在女书服装设计中的应用  

Application of traditional bean dyeing techniques in the women’s script clothing design

作　　者：黄牧晨 黄天蓝[1] HUANG Muchen;HUANG Tianlan(Nanjing University of the Arts,School of Design,Nanjing 210013,China)

机构地区：[1]南京艺术学院设计学院,江苏南京210013

出　　处：《染整技术》2025年第2期67-72,共6页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：2023年江苏省大学生创新创业训练省级一般项目“非遗视角下传统豆染与江永女书在服装设计中的创新实践”(202310331012Y)。

摘　　要：豆染是一种使用特制豆面作为防染剂的染布工艺,与传统蜡染中使用的防染剂蜂蜡相比,具有绿色环保的特性。女书是中国小部分女性之间特有的一种密语、一种交流方式,字形优美,具有深刻寓意。豆染与女书凝聚了中国古老传统文化的智慧,但由于流传度不够广泛而缺乏关注度,两种技艺的结合使服装设计的魅力值得到更大的提升。分析女书符号的本质特征,并寻求新的设计方法,将其与豆染相结合,以女书作为创作灵感,以豆染作为使用方法,以服装作为展示载体,以期对传统服饰文化的继承和发扬工作尽绵薄之力。Bean dyeing is a kind of cloth dyeing technique using special bean flour as anti-stain agent.Compared with beeswax used in traditional batik,it has the characteristics of being environmentally friendly.Women’s script is a unique secret language and a way of communication among a small number of women in China.It has beautiful changes in shape and profound meaning in communication.Although bean dyeing and women’s script embody the wisdom of Chinese ancient traditional culture,they lack attention due to the lack of dissenination.The combination of the two techniques can greatly enhance the charm of clothing design.The essential characteristics of the symbols of women’s script are analyzed,and new design methods are sought to combine them with bean dyeing,using women’s script as creative inspiration,bean dyeing as usage method,and clothing as display carrier,in order to contribute to the inheritance and development of traditional clothing culture.

关 键 词：豆染 江永女书 服装 设计 

分 类 号：TS941.7[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]