北宋许道宁服饰形象设计研究——《雪景寒林图·前世传奇》  

XU Daoning's Garment Design in the Northern Song Dynasty:"Snowy Landscape and Cold Forest Scroll-Past Life Legend"

作　　者：张蓓蓓[1] ZHANG Beibei(School of Art,Soochow University,Jiangsu Suzhou 215000,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学艺术学院,江苏苏州215000

出　　处：《工业工程设计》2025年第1期61-68,共8页INDUSTRIAL&ENGINEERING DESIGN

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(20BG119)。

摘　　要：《国家宝藏・雪景寒林图》围绕天津博物馆藏国宝——北宋范宽画作《雪景寒林图》,巧思妙构了一段北宋画家许道宁与《雪景寒林图》之间的故事。主要角色北宋画院画家许道宁的整体服饰设计,主要参考《听琴图》中文人形象,结合墓葬出土实物和古籍记载,参照墓葬壁画、寺庙壁画、人物卷轴画等图像遗存,综合复原和再设计了身服、首服、足服的款式、面料纹样等。以此重现宋代文人士大夫的审美风格和时代风貌,探索宋代服饰所蕴含的节用理念和制衣智慧以及中国传统纺织文化的深厚底蕴。"The National Treasure:Snowy Landscape and Cold Forest Scroll"focuses on the Northern Song Dynasty painter FAN Kuan's masterpiece,"Snowy Landscape and Cold Forest Scroll"housed in the Tianjin Museum.It skillfully constructs a narrative that intertwines this painting with the life of XU Daoning,an artist of the Northern Song Dynasty.Specifically,with images of people in"Listening to the Guqin"as the main reference,and supplemented by archaeological findings from tombs and ancient texts,XU Daoning,an artist from the Northern Song Imperial Painting Academy,meticulously restored and redesigned his attire,including body suit,head suit,foot suit,and fabric patterns.This restoration aligns with the visual remnants found in tomb murals,temple murals,and figure scroll paintings,thereby recreating the aesthetic and stylistic characteristics of literati and officials in the Song Dynasty.Additionally,it explores the economic principles and wisdom behind clothing production during the Song Dynasty,as well as the profound heritage of traditional Chinese textile culture.

关 键 词：宋代 许道宁 男子服饰 

分 类 号：TB472[一般工业技术—工业设计]