清代宫廷纺织服饰中黄色的应用  

Application of Yellow in Textiles and Costumes of the Qing Dynasty Court

作　　者：贾玺增[1] 张馨翌 JIA Xizeng;ZHANG Xinyi(Academy of Arts and Design,Tsinghua University,Beijing 100084,China)

机构地区：[1]清华大学美术学院,北京100084

出　　处：《服装学报》2025年第1期68-85,共18页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：国家社会科学基金艺术学项目(2023AG02987)。

摘　　要：黄色作为五行之色在清代被赋予了特殊的地位和意义,代表神圣不可侵犯的权威,是宫廷纺织服饰的青睐之色。以故宫博物院数字博物馆内收藏的宫廷纺织服饰为研究载体,采用实物佐证同时结合文献考证的研究方法,对清代宫廷纺织服饰中黄色系的种类、色彩特征、使用范围进行梳理和分析,总结其等级次序与区分因素。研究表明:清代宫廷服饰用黄的等级由高到低依次为明黄、杏黄、金黄、秋香、鹅黄、米色和米黄,服色等级越高,黄色调越多,色值越纯正,杂色越少,明度亦越高。以色彩属性和用色身份作为区分等级的标准,旨在强化皇权,从而维护专制集权的统治。As the color of the five elements, yellow was given a special status and meaning in the Qing Dynasty. It was the preferred color for court textile costumes, representing the sacrosanct and inviolable authority of the emperor. Taking the court textile costumes collected in the digital museum of the Palace Museum as the research carrier, through the research method of physical evidence combined with documentary evidence, we sorted out and analyzed the types, color characteristics, and scope of use of yellow in the court textile costumes of the Qing Dynasty, and summarized the hierarchical order of the yellow system and its distinguishing factors. The study shows that the rank order of yellow used in Qing Dynasty court costumes is as follows, from the highest to lowest rank: bright yellow、 apricot yellow、 golden yellow、 autumn fragrance、 goose yellow、 beige and buff. The higher the rank of the color, the more yellow tones, the purer the color value, the fewer the miscellaneous colors, and the higher the brightness. The use of color attributes and color identity as a criterion for distinguishing ranks was intended to strengthen imperial power and thus maintain the rule of an authoritarian centralized system.

关 键 词：清代宫廷 纺织服饰 黄色系 等级制度 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]