纳米包埋技术在化妆品功效原料制剂中的应用  

Application of nanocarrier technology in Cosmetic active ingredient formulations

作　　者：孔唯一 李荣婷 袁焕祥 KONG Weiyi;LI Rongting;YUAN Huanxiang(Beijing Technology and Business University,School of Light Industry Science and Engineering,Beijing,100048;Zhiyuan Research Institute,Hangzhou,310020)

机构地区：[1]北京工商大学轻工科学与工程学院,北京100048 [2]杭州智元研究院,杭州310020

出　　处：《中国化妆品科学》2024年第1期15-19,共5页

摘　　要：随着消费者对美的不断追求,大众对化妆品的功效要求逐渐提高,如美白、修复、抗衰、保湿等。有的功效成分由于溶解性问题,如具有美白功效的光甘草定和具有修复功能的神经酰胺,导致其难以在化妆品中添加足够的起效量。一些具有保湿、抗衰功能的活性多肽,大部分为水溶性物质,使其无法在精油类护肤产品中添加,限制了配方应用范围。还有很大一部分功效成分由于稳定性较差,如维生素C和虾青素,极易被氧化,添加在化妆品中易失活从而无法充分发挥功能。此外,有的化妆品虽然添加了功效成分,但由于其透皮能力较弱,也无法充分发挥其功效。利用分子组装机制的纳米包埋技术可将功效成分包埋在不同尺寸、不同溶解性的纳米材料中,可以很好地解决上述溶解性、稳定性及功效发挥问题。综述了几类典型的纳米包埋技术在化妆品功效制剂中的应用。With the continuous pursuit of beauty by consumers,the demands for the efficacy of cosmetics have gradually increased,such as whitening,repair,anti-aging,and moisturizing effects.Some active ingredients,due to solubility issues-such as glabridin with whitening properties and ceramides with repair functions-are difficult to incorporate in sufficient effective amounts into cosmetics.Additionally,many active peptides with moisturizing and anti-aging functions are primarily water-soluble,making them unsuitable for inclusion in oil-based skincare products,thus limiting the range of formulation applications.Furthermore,a significant number of effective ingredients,like vitamin C and astaxanthin,have poor stability and are easily oxidized,leading to loss of activity when added to cosmetics,preventing them from fully exerting their functions.Moreover,some cosmetics,although containing active ingredients,cannot effectively utilize their benefits due to weak transdermal absorption.The use of nanocarrier technology based on molecular assembly mechanisms can encapsulate active ingredients in nanomaterials of varying sizes and solubilities,effectively addressing the aforementioned issues of solubility,stability,and efficacy.This review summarizes several typical nanocarrier technologies and their applications in cosmetic efficacy formulations.

关 键 词：纳米包埋技术 纳米颗粒 脂质体 超分子组装 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]