含巴西棕榈蜡和乳木果油的唇膏折断力研究及其功效评价  

Study on the breaking force and efficacy evaluation of lipsticks containing carnauba wax and shea butter

作　　者：訾玉沙 刘建伟 姜秀玉 胡慰任 盛文利 桂雨豪 彭先武 ZI Yusha;LIU Jianwei;JIANG Xiuyu;HU Weiren;SHENG Wenli;GUI Yuhao;PENG Xianwu(Amway(Shanghai)Techology Development Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201203,China;Guangzhou Access Business Co.,Ltd.,Guangzhou,Guangdong 510730,China;Amway(China)R&D Co.,Ltd.,Guangzhou,Guangdong 510730,China;Amway(China)Co.,Ltd.,Guangzhou,Guangdong 510730,China)

机构地区：[1]安利(上海)科技发展有限公司,上海201203 [2]广州捷通日化制造有限公司,广东广州510730 [3]安利(中国)研发中心有限公司,广东广州510730 [4]安利(中国)日用品有限公司,广东广州510730

出　　处：《日用化学品科学》2025年第3期23-26,38,共5页Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：从配方和功效角度出发,采用正交试验探索3款潜在兼具功效和影响折断力的原料最佳比例,并进行人体功效验证。结果表明,当巴西棕榈蜡、乳木果油和肉豆蔻醇异丙酯比例为3︰7︰3时,折断力最优。受试者使用唇膏配方14天后,唇部角质层水分含量显著提升23.51%(P<0.05),经皮失水率(Transepidermal water loss,TEWL)显著降低20.61%,光泽度显著提升9.88%,皮肤鳞屑指数显著减少55.76%。Starting from the perspective of formula and efficacy,orthogonal experiments were first performed to explore the optimal ratio of three raw materials that potentially affect breaking force of lipsticks,verification experiment on humans was then conducted to test the efficacy of the lipstick formula.Results showed that when the ratio of carnauba wax,shea butter and myristyl isopropyl ester was 3∶7∶3,the breaking force was optimal.After the subjects used the lipstick formula for 14 days,the moisture content of the lip stratum corneum significantly increased by 23.51%(P<0.05),the transepidermal water loss(TEWL)rate significantly decreased by 20.61%,the skin glossiness increased significantly by 9.88%,and the skin scale index decreased significantly by 55.76%.

关 键 词：巴西棕榈蜡 乳木果油 折断力 唇膏 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]