毛精纺低弹大泡绉面料的设计与开发  

Design of worsted fabric with low elasticity and large bubble crepe

作　　者：费永智 赵丽丽 常亭亭 李玉武 隋辉 郭小云 程晓羽 高晓艳[3] FEI Yongzhi;ZHAO Lili;CHANG Tingting;LI Yuwu;SUI Hui;GUO Xiaoyun;CHENG Xiaoyu;GAO Xiaoyan(Shandong Nanshan Zhishang Technology Co.,Ltd.,Yantai,Shandong 265706,China;Key Laboratory of Functional Fibers and Textiles,Yantai,Shandong 265706,China;Yantai Nanshan University,Yantai,Shandong 265700,China)

机构地区：[1]山东南山智尚科技股份有限公司,山东烟台265706 [2]烟台市功能性纤维及纺织品重点实验室,山东烟台265706 [3]烟台南山学院,山东烟台265700

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2025年第2期1-5,共5页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为了满足市场多样化需求并提升客户满意度,设计开发具有空间感和创意表现力的双层平面立体感毛精纺面料,将棋盘格图案应用到双层面料设计,通过纺纱、织造以及后整理开发一款兼具低弹特性和大泡绉视觉效果的高品质毛精纺低弹大泡绉面料,并测试其强力、撕破性能、尺寸变化性能、脱缝性能、起毛起球性能。结果显示,经、纬向断裂强力测试值分别为257、201 N,经、纬向撕破强力分别为18.9、16.8 N,均超过GB/T 26382—2011《精梳毛织品》一等品断裂强力标准值196 N、撕破强力不低于15 N的要求。此外,该面料的尺寸稳定性、脱缝程度以及起毛起球性能也均符合GB/T 26382—2011《精梳毛织品》规定的一等品标准。毛精纺低弹大泡绉面料的开发不仅可增加市场竞争力,也为后续泡绉面料的批量生产提供了新的方向和实践参考。In order to meet the diverse market demands and enhance customer satisfaction,a double-layer worsted wool fabric with three-dimensional texture and innovative aesthetics was designed.The checkerboard pattern was integrated into the dual-layer structure,and a high-quality low elasticity worsted fabric featuring a pronounced bubble crepe effect was developed through optimized spinning,weaving,and finishing processes,and comprehensive performance testing,including tensile strength,tear strength,dimensional stability,seam slippage,and pilling resistance were conducted.The results show that the warp and weft tensile strength values were 257 and 201 N,respectively,both exceeding the first-grade standard value of 196 N specified in GB/T 26382:2011 Worsted Fabrics.The warp and weft tear strength values were 18.9 and 16.8 N,respectively,meeting the superior grade requirement of no less than 15 N as per the same standard.In addition,the dimensional stability,seam slippage,and pilling resistance of this fabric all comply with the first-class product standards specified in GB/T 26382:2011 Worsted Fabrics.The development of worsted low elasticy large bubble crepe fabric not only enhances market competitiveness but also provides new directions and practical references for the subsequent mass production of bubble crepe fabrics.

关 键 词：毛精纺 低弹 双层组织 泡绉 休闲面料 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]