亚麻/丝光羊毛/桑蚕丝高纬弹衬衫面料的设计与生产  

Design and production of linen/mercerized wool/mulberry silk highweft elastic shirt fabric

作　　者：周力 周新祥 李雯 孙艳红 ZHOU Li;ZHOU Xinxiang;LI Wen;SUN Yanhong(Shengzhou Youngor Wool Textile Co.,Ltd.,Shengzhou,Zhejiang 312400,China)

机构地区：[1]嵊州雅戈尔毛纺织有限公司,浙江嵊州312400

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2025年第2期6-11,共6页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：为了满足消费者对服装时尚、健康、绿色的升级需求,采用亚麻、羊毛、桑蚕丝天然纤维组合开发精纺男装衬衫面料。通过亚麻/细旦桑蚕丝并线合股为经纱,利用丝光羊毛/桑蚕丝/氨纶赛络纺纺制高弹纱为纬纱,采用乙烯基淀粉混合物、蜡片、渗透剂和水浆液上浆后进行织造得到亚麻/丝光羊毛/桑蚕丝高纬弹衬衫面料。优化纬纱环锭赛络纺弹力纱预牵伸倍数,将牵伸倍数稳定在3.5倍;面料纬向弹性伸长率为34.1%,经、纬向断裂强力分别为694、268 N,经、纬向水洗尺寸变化率分别为-2.6%和1.0%,对金黄色葡萄球菌的抑菌率为98.00%,开发的亚麻/丝光羊毛/桑蚕丝高纬弹衬衫面料手感柔滑,光泽优雅,亲肤舒适,具有良好的服用性能、优越的弹力和弹性回复性、良好的抗菌功能,为精纺男装衬衫面料的开发和实际生产提供思路和借鉴。In order to meet consumers′upgrading demand for fashion,health and green,worsted men′s shirt fabric was developed by combining natural fibers of linen,wool and mulberry silk.The linen/fine denier silk was spun as warp yarn,the mercerized wool/silk/spandex siro-yarn was used as weft yarn,and the linen/mercerized wool/silk high weft elastic shirt fabric was made by sized with vinyl starch mixture,wax sheet,penetrant and water slurry.The pre-drafting multiple of the ring-spun siro-spun elastic weft yarn was optimized,and the draft multiple was stabilized at 3.5 times.The weft elastic elongation of the fabric was 34.1%,the warp and weft breaking strength were 694 and 268 N respectively,the warp and weft washing size change rate was-2.6%and 1.0%respectively,and the antibacterial rate against Staphylococcus aureus was 98.00%.The developed linen/mercerized wool/mulberry silk high weft elastic shirt fabric has soft feel,elegant luster and skin friendly comfort.It has good wear performance,superior elasticity and elastic recovery,and good antibacterial function.It provides ideas and references for the development and actual production of worsted men′s shirt fabric.

关 键 词：亚麻 丝光羊毛 桑蚕丝 高弹 男装衬衫 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]