间条羊毛针织物的缩绒尺寸改善工艺  

Improving the size of boil wool for striped knitted fabrics

作　　者：沈晓强 朱嵛婷 姚春婵 张翊翔 张劲峰 SHEN Xiaoqiang;ZHU Yuting;YAO Chunchan;ZHANG Yixiang;ZHANG Jinfeng(Guangdong Xinyang Textile Technology Co.,Ltd.,Dongguang,Guangdong 523775,China;Shaoxing Fuheng Textile Technology Co.,Ltd.,Shaoxing,Zhejiang 312030,China;Ningbo University,Ningbo,Zhejiang 315211,China;Shaoxing Keqiao West-Tex Textile Industry Innovative Institute,Shaoxing,Zhejiang 312030,China)

机构地区：[1]广东新羊纺织科技有限公司,广东东莞523775 [2]绍兴孚亨纺织科技有限公司,浙江绍兴312030 [3]宁波大学,浙江宁波315211 [4]绍兴市柯桥区西纺纺织产业创新研究院,浙江绍兴312030

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2025年第2期35-40,共6页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：后整理是羊毛衫制作过程中的一个关键步骤。在相同后整理工艺条件下,不同颜色的羊毛针织物缩绒率不同,导致成衣尺寸存在一定的差异。为了研究间条羊毛针织物的缩绒尺寸,在不同温度、浴比、时间和pH值条件下进行缩绒工艺优化。结果表明:水温38℃,处理时间40 min,浴比1∶25,pH值为8条件下,黑白间条羊毛针织物缩绒尺寸差异最小。在染黑色的坯纱中添加9%防缩毛条,或在白色纱线中加入14%精短毛条,采用优化工艺进行缩绒处理,可以有效使黑白间条羊毛针织物缩绒尺寸差异减小到0.02 cm。Finishing is a key step in the production process of worsted sweaters.In order to solve the problem that the size of sweaters varies due to the different shrinkage rate of knitted fabrics with different colors under the same finishing process conditions,the shrinkage rate of striped worsted sweaters was studied,and the shrinkage process was optimized under different temperature,bath ratio,time and pH value.The results show that under the conditions of water temperature 38℃,treatment time 40 min,bath ratio 1∶25 and pH value 8,the difference of the size of black and white striped worsted sweaters is the smallest.Adding 9%anti-shrink top to the black dyed blank yarn or 14%short top to the white yarn can effectively reduce the size difference of black and white striped worsted sweaters to 0.02 cm.

关 键 词：羊毛衫 成衣 缩绒 间色 

分 类 号：TS195.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]