低裁耗经编全成形高弹连体衣结构设计与开发  

Structural design and development of low-cutting consumption warp knitted fully formed high-elastic jumpsuits

作　　者：姚思宏 何玉灿 王二南 董智佳 马丕波 YAO Sihong;HE Yucan;WANG Ernan;DONG Zhijia;MA Pibo(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2025年第1期103-110,共8页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：国家自然科学基金(61902150)。

摘　　要：为解决经编成形服装开发版型单一,生产裁耗高等问题,根据人体上肢的动态特征对版型结构进行转化,将向下织造的衣袖转化为向上织造,消除裁耗的同时增加衣领结构。同时,为提高高弹连体衣尺寸包容性,结合经编成形织物组织特性设计具有V形网孔的经编凹凸纵条组织,并进行拉伸性能测试。结果表明,使用此版型并采用孔数与底组织纵行数比例为4∶4的凹凸纵条组织的拉伸性能优异。采用CLO3D作为预览平台,缩短开发周期,进行实例织造,织造的经编成形连体衣消除了占比约30%的裁剪损耗,能够穿着M~XXL尺码人群,同步实现低裁耗与无尺码化,为降低经编成形服装的裁耗提供新的设计思路。Warp-knit forming garments have the problems of developing a single pattern and the existence of cutting wastage in production.The pattern structure was optimized according to the dynamic characteristics of human upper limbs.The downward weaving of the sleeves was converted to upward weaving,which eliminates the cutting consumption and increases the collar structure at the same time.Meanwhile,to improve the size inclusiveness to high elastic jumpsuits,a concave-convex longitudinal stripe with V-shaped mesh was designed by combining the organizational characteristics of warp knitting fabrics.Tensile performance tests were conducted.The results show that the tensile performance of the rib-like stripe with a 4∶4 ratio between the number of holes and the number of longitudinal rows of the base tissue is excellent.CLO3D as a preview platform,shortens the development cycle and performs example weaving.The warp-knit garments eliminate about 30%of the cutting loss,and are able to be worn by people in sizes M to XXL,simultaneously realizing low cutting loss and no sizing.This study provides new design ideas for research on reducing cut loss in warp-knit garments.

关 键 词：经编成形 低裁耗 高弹连体衣 凹凸纵条组织 拉伸性能 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]