贝宁海滩波浪传播演变特性及其对海床稳定性的影响  

Wave propagation and its influence on the stability of seabed over the Benin coast

作　　者：罗梦岩 王广生 童林龙 孙雷[4] 张继生 LUO Mengyan;WANG Guangsheng;TONG Linlong;SUN Lei;ZHANG Jisheng(Key Laboratory of Ministry of Education for Coastal Disaster and Protection,Hohai University,Nanjing 210098,China;College of Harbor,Coastal and Offshore Engineering,Hohai University,Nanjing 210098,China;China Harbour Engineering Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 100027,China;CCCC Fourth Harbor Engineering Institute Co.Ltd.,Guangzhou 510440,China)

机构地区：[1]河海大学海岸灾害及防护教育部重点实验室,江苏南京210098 [2]河海大学港口海岸与近海工程学院,江苏南京210098 [3]中国港湾工程有限责任公司,北京100027 [4]中交四航工程研究院有限公司,广东广州510440

出　　处：《河海大学学报(自然科学版)》2025年第2期115-123,共9页Journal of Hohai University(Natural Sciences)

基　　金：国家重点研发计划政府间国际科技创新合作重点专项(2023YFE0126300);国家自然科学基金项目(52101309)。

摘　　要：基于贝宁海滩侵蚀区段地形特征建立了海滩剖面物理模型,通过斜坡上波浪浅水变形和破碎物理试验,研究了贝宁海滩波浪传播演变规律和孔隙水压力响应特征,分析了波浪运动过程中的浅水变形特性、破碎规律和土体液化情况。结果表明:波浪在传播至沙坝附近时波高显著增大,且随着入射波高的增大,波浪的传播变形更为剧烈;波浪在向岸传播过程中非线性参数不断增大,并在沙坝附近达到临界值、发生破碎,随着入射波高和周期的增大,波浪破碎带逐渐外移,长周期涌浪比短周期风浪更容易发生破碎,涌浪能量占比越大,破碎越早,其破碎波呈现出崩破波的特征;波面形态的急剧变化导致沙坝附近的垂直孔压梯度陡增,从而影响了土颗粒的有效容重,随着入射波高的增大,沙坝附近的水平孔压梯度增大,土体更容易液化;风浪能量占比为50%的双峰谱波浪引起的水平孔压梯度最大,液化显著,涌浪次之,纯风浪引起的水平水压梯度和液化风险最小。A standard physical model of beach profiles was established based on the morphological features of the erosion section of Benin beach.The wave propagation and evolution laws,along with pore water pressure response characteristics,were investigated through physical tests of wave shoaling and breaking on a slope.Wave shoaling,breaking,and liquefaction during wave propagation were analyzed.The findings indicate a substantial increase in wave height as it propagates near the sandbar;wave propagation deformation increases with rising incident wave height.Nonlinear parameters of the wave continually increase during onshore propagation and attain critical values close to the sandbar,resulting in breaking.With increasing heights and periods of the incident wave,the wave-breaking zone shifts seaward progressively,with long-period swell more prone to breaking than short-period storms.As the proportion of swell increases,the breaking wave occurs earlier,characterized by spilling breakers.Additionally,abrupt changes in waveform result in a sharp increase in vertical pore pressure gradient near the sandbar,affecting soil effective weight.The higher the incident wave height,the larger the horizontal pore pressure gradient,increasing susceptibility to liquefaction.Furthermore,bimodal spectrum waves with 50%wind wave proportion cause the largest horizontal pore pressure gradients and most significant liquefaction,followed by swollen waves;wind waves alone result in the smallest liquefaction.

关 键 词：长周期波浪 双峰谱 孔隙水压力 浅水变形 土体液化 贝宁海滩 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学] TV148[水利工程—水力学及河流动力学]