“有味是清欢”:苏轼的饮食生活与文学创作——兼谈宋韵饮食文化的特点  

“Where Flavor Resonates with Simplicity”:Su Shi’s Dietary Life and Literary Creation——An Exploration of Dietary Culture in the Song Dynasty

作　　者：刘俞廷 LIU Yuting(Sansu Research Institute,Sichuan Normal University,Chengdu 610066,China)

机构地区：[1]四川师范大学三苏研究院,四川成都610066

出　　处：《齐鲁学刊》2025年第2期135-146,共12页Qilu Journal

基　　金：四川师范大学三苏研究院资助科研项目“苏轼宋代饮食材料整理及其饮食生活研究”(SSYJY24-19);成都市哲学社会科学规划项目“古代蜀地文人饮食与成都都市圈文旅融合研究”(YY1720230855)。

摘　　要：苏轼的饮食生活十分丰富。在仕宦中,苏轼参与的宴饮活动既有宫中的大宴、曲宴,也有地方的同僚宴饮。与宫廷宴饮相关的文学创作以颂圣为主,而与地方同僚宴饮相关的文学创作多关注朋友交际,这两种创作都比较程式化。苏轼的日常饮食活动更为多样化,更具趣味性,并展现了他的生活状态与审美趣味。苏轼书写的日常饮食生活既包括亲自烹饪食物、酿酒煮茶,也包括与友朋互赠饮食、借食物戏谑调笑以及轻松愉悦的私下聚饮。在宋代文人中,苏轼的饮食生活与文学创作具有典型性。通过对食材饮品、酒器食器、用餐环境等方面的考察,可以看到宋韵饮食文化具有清简与雅致的特点。“人间有味是清欢”,宋韵饮食文化的特点对当代的饮食生活不无启迪意义。Su Shi's dietary life was quite rich and colorful.During his official career,Su Shi participated in banquets ranging from grand imperial feasts and leisurely palace banquets to gatherings with colleagues in local administrations.Literary creations related to official palace banquet mainly praised the emperor,while those related to banquets with local colleagues focused more on friendships,and both forms of creation were rather formulaic.Su Shi's daily dietary activities were more diverse and interesting,reflecting his lifestyle and aesthetic preferences.His writings about daily dietary life encompassed cooking meals,brewing liquor,and making tea,as well as exchanging culinary gifts with friends,jesting over food,and enjoying relaxed private gatherings.Among the literati of the Song Dynasty,Su Shi's dietary life and literary creation were exemplary.By examining aspects such as food and beverages,wine and food vessels,and dining environments,one can see that the dietary culture of the Song Dynasty was characterized by simplicity and elegance.“The best flavor of life lies in simplicity,” and the characteristics of the Song Dynasty's dietary culture offer enlightening insights for contemporary dietary practices.

关 键 词：苏轼 日常生活 饮食书写 宋韵文化 蜀地文人 

分 类 号：I209[文学—中国文学]