双甘油抗坏血酸的稳定性评价及其在化妆品中的应用研究  

Stability Evaluation of Diglycerol Ascorbic Acid and its Application in Cosmetics

作　　者：龙艳 高标 张梦雅 李适炜 Long Yan;Gao Biao;Zhang Mengya;Li Shiwei(Guangdong Bawei Biotechnology Corporation,Guangzhou 510450,China;Guangdong Youzhi Testing Technology Co.,Ltd.,Guangzhou 510450,China)

机构地区：[1]广东芭薇生物科技股份有限公司,广东广州510450 [2]广东悠质检测技术有限公司,广东广州510450

出　　处：《广东化工》2025年第3期135-137,共3页Guangdong Chemical Industry

摘　　要：通过与传统的VC衍生物—抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁(MAP)和抗坏血酸葡糖苷(AG)的比较,测试和评价一种新的VC衍生物—双甘油抗坏血酸(BGA)在化妆品中的应用。测试3种VC衍生物在精华液、乳液和膏霜中的配方稳定性并进行结果对比,通过人体功效测试分别验证BGA的保湿和美白功效,并与MAP和AG进行对比。结果表明,BGA比其他两种传统VC衍生物具有更好的稳定性。人体功效试验结果表明BGA组在使用产品后1 h、2 h、4 h和6 h后,皮肤水分含量显著优于空白组(P<0.05),并从2 h开始,皮肤水分含量显著高于MAP组和AG组,使用BGA后,皮肤的亮度L值、黑色素和ITA°值均有一定程度的改善。BGA具有较好的稳定性,并且有良好的保湿性能,保湿效果优于MAP和AG,可能有提高皮肤亮度和白度、减少黑色素的作用,美白效果与MAP和AG相当。BGA有作为化妆品功效原料的潜力,有望得到广泛应用。Test and evaluate the application of a new VC derivative-diglycerol ascorbic acid(BGA)in cosmetics by comparing it with traditional VC derivatives-magnesium ascorbic acid phosphate(MAP)and ascorbic acid glucoside(AG).The formula stability of three VC derivatives in essence,lotion and cream was tested and the results were compared.The moisturizing and whitening effects of BGA were verified through human efficacy tests,and were compared with MAP and AG.The results indicate that BGA has better stability than the other two traditional VC derivatives.The results of the human efficacy test showed that the skin moisture content of the BGA group was significantly better than that of the blank group after 1 hour,2 hours,4 hours,and 6 hours of product use(P<0.05),and from 2 hours onwards,the skin moisture content was significantly higher than that of the MAP and AG groups.After using BGA,the brightness L value,melanin and ITA°value of the skin were improved to some extent.BGA has good stability and moisturizing properties,with better moisturizing effects than MAP and AG.BGA can improve skin brightness and whiteness,and its whitening effect is comparable to MAP and AG.BGA has the potential as a cosmetic ingredient and is expected to be widely used.

关 键 词：VC衍生物 双甘油抗坏血酸 抗坏血酸磷酸酯镁 抗坏血酸葡糖苷 稳定性 美白功效 保湿功效 

分 类 号：TQ[化学工程]