羊毛棉混纺低增长率面料的开发  

Development of wool cotton blended fabric with low growth rate

作　　者：楚云荣 王旭洲 刘玉娥 樊伟力[3] 石鲁美 CHU Yunrong;WANG Xuzhou;LIU Yu’e;FAN Weili;SHI Lumei(Huafang Engineering Technology Research Institute Limited of Binzhou,Binzhou 256617,China;Shandong Key Laboratory of Green and Low Carbon Processing Technology for Fibers and Textiles,Binzhou 256617,China;Huafang Limited Company,Binzhou 256617,China)

机构地区：[1]滨州华纺工程技术研究院有限公司,山东滨州256617 [2]山东省纤维及织品绿色低碳加工技术重点实验室,山东滨州256617 [3]华纺股份有限公司技术中心,山东滨州256617

出　　处：《染整技术》2025年第3期15-19,22,共6页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

摘　　要：针对羊毛棉混纺服装面料存在弹性增长大于6%,弹性拉伸率大于45%,无法满足客户需求的问题,基于弹性面料舒适性兼具生物基尼龙的优点,设计不同氨纶含量、不同氨纶厂家、不同缩水率等方案,开发低弹性增长的高档服装面料。结果表明,莱卡氨纶的弹性拉伸率要高于国产氨纶;莱卡氨纶的弹性增长率要优于国产氨纶;且随着面料纬数的增加,面料的弹性拉伸性能逐渐增大;当面料规格为单经四纬,定形温度为205℃时,弹性拉伸率大于45%,弹性增长率小于6%,达到了指标要求。In response to the problem that the wool and cotton blended fabric for clothing has an elastic growth greater than 6%and an elastic stretch rate greater than 45%,which fails to meet customer demands,based on the advan-tages of elastic fabric comfort and bio-based nylon,different schemes with various spandex contents,different spandex man-ufacturers,and different shrinkage rates were designed to develop high-end clothing fabrics with low elastic growth.The re-sults show that the elastic stretch rate of Lycra spandex is higher than that of domestic spandex;the elastic growth rate of Lycra spandex is better than that of domestic spandex;and as the number of fabric wefts increases,the elastic stretch per-formance of the fabric gradually increases.When the fabric specification is single warp and four wefts,and the setting tem-perature is 205℃,the elastic stretch rate is greater than 45%,and the elastic growth rate is less than 6%,meeting the in-dex requirements.

关 键 词：羊毛棉混纺弹力面料 弹性增长率 拉伸性能 缩水率 

分 类 号：TS156[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]