基于可持续的解构主义理论的体块分割羽绒服设计方法  

A down jacket design method based on sustainable deconstructionist theory of body block segmentation

作　　者：宋婧 张雅晴 彭家琪 周洪雷[1,2] SONG Jing;ZHANG Yaqing;PENG Jiaqi;ZHOU Honglei(School of Fashion and Art Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Modern Garment Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《染整技术》2025年第3期46-51,共6页Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal

基　　金：上海市设计学Ⅳ类高峰学科资助项目-时尚设计与品牌形象传播(DD18001);东华大学中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金(2232023G-08)资助。

摘　　要：针对可持续话题的发展趋势,解决旧衣回收环境之下关于服装在市场中的发展困境,将解构主义理论下的体块分割作为切入角度探讨其在羽绒服设计中的创新方法。首先概述可持续背景下的解构主义理论;其次阐述解构主义下体块分割的定义与特点,并通过分析体块分割法在羽绒服设计中的应用手法探讨具体的方式;最后依据上述理论研究,以旧衣为基础通过解构主义理论进行分割、拼接、重组等建立流程图解,详细说明在实际设计中如何运用解构设计方法。基于可持续发展设计理念,将旧衣物作为研究解构主义理论在羽绒服设计中的款式多样化设计的基础,为未来解构主义在可持续领域之下的服装设计中的拓展提供思路和方法。In response to the development trend of sustainable topics and to solve the dilemma of the development of clothing in the market under the environment of recycling old clothes,the innovative method of body segmentation under the deconstructionist theory as an entry point in the design of down jackets is explored.Firstly,an overview of the decon-structionist theory under sustainability is given.Secondly,the definition and characteristics of body segmentation under de-constructionism are elaborated,and the specific ways of applying the body segmentation method in down apparel design is analyzed by analysing the application methods of the body segmentation method.Lastly,based on the theoretical research mentioned above,a flow chart based on the old garments is established through the deconstructionist theory by way of seg-mentation,splicing,and reorganisation,to show how to use the deconstructive design method in actual design in detail.Based on the concept of sustainable development design,the aim is to use old clothes as the basis for the study of decon-structivism theory in down jacket design,and to provide ideas and methods for the future expansion of deconstructivism in clothing design under the field of sustainable development.

关 键 词：可持续 解构主义 体块分割 羽绒服 服装设计 方法 

分 类 号：TS941.7[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]