植物染丝网印在服装设计中的创新应用——基于马王堆印花敷彩纱工艺的启示  

Innovative Application of Plant-Dyed Screen Printing in Fashion Design:Insights from the Mawangdui Printed and Painted Gauze Technique of the Han Dynasty

作　　者：李雨欣 王丽 LI Yuxin;WANG Li(Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院,北京100029

出　　处：《西部皮革》2025年第4期95-97,共3页West Leather

摘　　要：以马王堆汉代印花敷彩纱工艺为灵感,探讨植物染与丝网印结合在服装设计中的创新应用。通过分析传统镂版印花工艺的机理,结合现代丝网印刷技术,实验验证了植物染与丝网印的协同效应。研究采用黄栌、洋葱皮等天然染料,通过媒染剂调配和丝网印制工艺,成功开发出兼具古朴色调与可控图案的面料。尽管存在染色效果稳定性与批量生产的挑战,但该工艺为传统染印技术的现代转化提供了新路径,推动了服装设计在艺术性与可持续性上的双重创新。Inspired by the Mawangdui printed and painted gauze technique from the Han Dynasty,this study explores the innovative integration of plant dyeing and screen printing in fashion design.By analyzing the mechanisms of traditional stencil printing and combining them with modern screen printing technology,the synergistic effects of plant dyeing and screen printing were experimentally validated.Using natural dyes such as smoke tree(Cotinus coggygria)and onion peel,along with mordant formulation and screen printing processes,fabrics with vintage tones and controllable patterns were successfully developed.Despite challenges in colorfastness stability and mass production scalability,this technique provides a new pathway for modernizing traditional dyeing and printing methods,advancing dual innovations in artistic expression and sustainability within fashion design.

关 键 词：植物染 丝网印 印花敷彩纱 镂版印花 工艺创新 可持续设计 

分 类 号：K[历史地理]