秦代服饰中前袭工艺技法分析  

Craftsmanship techniques of "QianXi" in the Qin dynasty

作　　者：宁简毓 陈果[1,2] NING Jianyu;CHEN Guo(School of Fashion Art and Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Clothing Culture and Design Innovation Research Center,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029 [2]北京服装学院服饰文化与设计创新研究中心,北京100029

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2025年第3期101-108,共8页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：北京市属高校分类发展新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(11000024T000003073871);陕西省教育厅科学研究计划项目(23JP059)。

摘　　要：为了对秦代服饰“前袭”的工艺技法进行深入解读,以北京大学藏秦简《制衣》篇记载内容为研究对象,采用文献研究、对比分析等方法,深入分析秦代“傅”和“兼”的制衣工艺技法,并提出“兼”的3种释义方案,结合出土文物进行互证,检验各方案的合理性与可行性,最后将方案3的斜裁法与传统的正裁法进行比较研究,得出斜裁法形成落肩效果的同时增加拥掩量,更契合当时的礼仪规范,对秦代前袭工艺技法分析有助于推动秦代服饰结构及其功能性研究,同时对古代平面裁剪技艺的传承与创新具有一定的借鉴意义。In order to deeply interpret the craftsmanship and techniques of the "QianXi" of Qin dynasty clothing,the content recorded in the Qin bamboo slips "Clothing Making" collected by Peking University was taken as the research object.Through literature review,comparative analysis and other methods,the "Fu" and "Jian" clothing craftsmanship techniques of the Qin dynasty were analyzed in depth,and three interpretation schemes for "Jian" were proposed.Combined with unearthed cultural relics,the rationality and feasibility of each scheme were verified through mutual verification.Finally,the bias cutting method of plan 3 is compared with the traditional straight cutting method,and it is concluded that the bias cutting method not only creates the shoulder drop effect,but also increases the clothing coverage,which is more in line with the etiquette norms at that time.It is helpful to promote the research on the structure and function of the clothing in Qin dynasty,and has certain reference significance for the inheritance and innovation of the ancient cutting technology.

关 键 词：北大秦简牍 《制衣》 工艺技法 秦代服饰 前袭 

分 类 号：TS941[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]