四川德昌傈僳族女性服饰串珠装饰艺术研究  

Research on bead decorations in women’s costumes of the Lisu ethnic group in Dechang,Sichuan province

作　　者：吴济池 乔洪 WU Jichi;QIAO Hong(School of Arts,Southwest Minzu University,Chengdu 610041,China;Academy of Fine Arts,Minzu University of China,Beijing 100081,China;College of Fashion and Design Art,Sichuan Normal University,Chengdu 610066,China)

机构地区：[1]西南民族大学艺术学院,成都610041 [2]中央民族大学美术学院,北京100081 [3]四川师范大学服装与设计艺术学院,成都610066

出　　处：《丝绸》2025年第4期97-104,共8页Journal of Silk

基　　金：西南民族大学中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金项目(2025SQN33)。

摘　　要：四川德昌傈僳族女性服饰中的帽子和腰带多用串珠装饰,其图案设计和配色深受本民族传统刺绣的影响,形成了鲜明的地域文化和民族特色。文章基于实物样本,从串珠的材质、制作工艺、色彩特征、图案造型及美学特征等方面对德昌傈僳族服饰的串珠装饰进行分析。研究表明:串珠图案按照一定规律排列组合,与传统刺绣图案相互呼应,整体布局呈现出主次分明、和谐有序的装饰效果。这种以“串”替“绣”的创新形式,不仅提升了工艺制作的便捷性与服饰的灵动美,也保留着传统文化的艺术精髓,展现了傈僳族造物理念中理性与感性交织的辩证思维,体现出服饰艺术中“物我合一”的设计智慧,彰显了在新时代审美背景下民族服饰文化的传承与发展趋势。The traditional costumes of Lisu women in Dechang,Sichuan,are well-known for their intricate beaded decorations,particularly on hats and belts.This beading,rich with color and texture,draws inspiration from their traditional embroidery techniques,creating a vibrant visual language that reflects the unique regional and ethnic identity of the Lisu people.With the gradual influence of industrialization and urbanization,the decorative elements in Dechang Lisu women’s costumes have transitioned significantly.Whereas embroidery once held a central place in these designs,beadwork has emerged as the predominant decorative method.This shift from thread to beads not only preserves the fundamental aesthetic principles of traditional costumes but also introduces a modern sensibility that makes these costumes relevant in contemporary settings.Therefore,studying the beaded decorations in Dechang Lisu women’s costumes increases a new research perspective on ethnic costume culture and provides new inspiration for contemporary fashion design.This study,based on field research and analysis of physical samples,examines the artistic expression and cultural connotations of Lisu beaded decorations from aspects such as bead materials,crafting techniques,color combinations,pattern shapes,and aesthetic characteristics.By comparing these with traditional embroidery,this study reveals the advantages and innovations brought about by beadwork in aesthetic and practical areas.The research shows that the beaded decoration art in the traditional costumes of Lisu women in Dechang not only embodies distinct characteristics of the era but also carries profound cultural significance and national sentiment.This is reflected in three major aspects.First,the beaded decorations in Dechang Lisu women’s costumes highlight an aesthetic shift of the times,replacing“embroidery”with“beading.”Against the backdrop of rapid industrialization and urbanization,traditional embroidery techniques have gradually been replaced by the more convenient and

关 键 词：德昌傈僳族 女性服饰 串珠装饰 图案设计 审美特色 服饰艺术 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]