职役足衣形制的北宋流行实证:从艺术作品的历史误读谈起  

Empirical evidence of popularity of footwear form of the government-assigned laborers in the Northern Song Dynasty:Starting from the historical misinterpretation of artistic works

作　　者：黄智高 HUANG Zhigao(School of Fashion,Henan University of Engineering,Zhengzhou 451191,China)

机构地区：[1]河南工程学院服装学院,郑州451191

出　　处：《丝绸》2025年第4期105-111,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：河南省高校人文社会科学研究一般项目(2024-ZZJH-424);河南工程学院科研培育基金项目(PYXM202114)。

摘　　要：职役足衣常以长靿靴形态见于北宋背景的影视、画作等当代艺术作品,与北宋相关史料所见有出入。针对此问题,文章着眼于当代相关艺术作品创作的基本史实供给之目标,应用图像学研究法、史料文献比较法、纵横向形制比较法等,从基本造型结构的实证探索角度,梳理、分析了北宋职役足衣的流行实际及其成因,发现北宋职役足衣以低帮形制为常态,背后成因复杂。研究表明:1)北宋职役足衣的流行形制分为浅口低帮和深口低帮两大类,而低帮浅口最为典型。2)低帮形制足衣是中华经典服饰古制,北宋职役的低帮穿用为复古流行驱动所致,可称为历史的回潮。此回潮,并非单一的服饰规制使然,而是基于国朝治理思想的崇儒教化与自我修养驱动,于日常足衣实践中形成的文化自觉风尚形态。The government-assigned laborer was a special type of service in the government institutions of the Northern Song Dynasty.Although it originated from the civilian class and had no official position or rank,it belonged to the rulers.As a bridge connecting officials and the common people,it accounted for a large proportion among various types of service and was in the dominant position.Its dressing image often attracted much attention,so key clothing items such as footwear were doubly constructed with the symbols of official ethics and civilian concepts,typically carrying the value orientation and fashion elements of the Northern Song society.Based on this,contemporary art works such as films,television dramas and paintings also fully reflected the footwear of the government-assigned laborers in the Northern Song Dynasty.In particular,the form of long boots was often seen,but there were differences from the relevant handed-down materials of the Northern Song Dynasty.In response to the above problems,aiming at the goal of providing the basic historical facts for the creation of contemporary relevant art works,this article applied iconographic research methods,comparative methods of historical materials and documents,and longitudinal and transverse shape comparison methods.From the perspective of empirical exploration of the basic modeling structure,it sorted out and analyzed the popularity reality and its causes of the footwear of the government-assigned laborers in the Northern Song Dynasty,and found that the low-cut shoes had been popular for a long time in the footwear of the government-assigned laborers in the Northern Song Dynasty.The reasons behind it were complex.Four major conclusions were drawn.First,the footwear of the government-assigned laborers in the Northern Song Dynasty was mainly low-cut shoes.The reproduction and expression of its mainstream form as long boots in contemporary art works was actually a misreading of historical images.Second,the popular shapes of the footwear of the government-assigne

关 键 词：职役足衣 低帮形制 北宋 流行实证 当代艺术作品 文化自觉 儒家礼教 历史回潮 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]