陕西韩城宋墓杂剧壁画人物服饰考论  

An examination of the costumes of the mural painting characters of Song tomb miscellaneous dramas in Hancheng,Shaanxi

作　　者：任佳欣 张彬 REN Jiaxin;ZHANG Bin(Apparel&Art Design College,Xi’an Polytechnic University,Xi’an 710043,China)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院,西安710043

出　　处：《丝绸》2025年第4期112-121,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：中国博士后科学基金第17批特别资助项目(2024T170537);西安工程大学研究生创新基金项目(chx2024010)。

摘　　要：宋朝是杂剧艺术发展和形成的重要时期,杂剧服饰在此时期也形成了一定的穿戴范式,陕西韩城盘乐村西壁的杂剧壁画是目前考古发现宋时期唯一一个脚色完备、色彩丰富、服饰形制明确的图像材料。基于现有研究以服饰史的角度对其涉入较少,文章旨在从杂剧服饰的穿戴范式与图像程式性出发,通过文献与图像、图像与图像的互证对比,深入分析韩城宋墓杂剧壁画中的人物服饰。研究内容主要包括对杂剧服饰与脚色身份的辨析及其与宋人日常社会风尚和杂剧服饰文化特征的讨论。研究表明,杂剧壁画中脚色服饰的穿戴已形成一定的程式性,脚色身份从右到左依次为装孤、副末、副净、副净、末泥;杂剧服饰中的簪花与围肚均来源于宋人服饰审美风尚。此外,以诨裹为例的杂剧服饰奠定了后世戏曲服饰的滑稽逗乐的审美因子,为人们研究宋代杂剧服饰发展和演变提供新视角。The Song Dynasty(9601279)was an important historical period in which the art of miscellaneous operas took shape and flourished,and during this period,miscellaneous operas’costumes accordingly built up specific patterns of wear.The mural painting of miscellaneous drama(M218)on the west wall of Panle village in Hancheng,Shaanxi,China is the only archaeological source of the Song Dynasty that has a complete set of characters,rich colors,and clear costume patterns.However,there is a relative lack of in-depth research on this mural from the perspective of costume history.The article takes the costumes of the characters in the mural paintings of miscellaneous dramas in the Song tombs of Hancheng as the core research object,using the method of cross-referencing and comparing literature with imagery,as well as imagery with imagery.This study deeply analyzes the paradigms of costume wearing and the visual stylistic features of costumes in Song miscellaneous dramas.It explores the cultural connotations embedded in the costumes,their association with character identities,and their intrinsic connections to the social trends of the Song Dynasty.Three following conclusions were drawn from the study.Firstly,the costumes of the characters in the mural paintings of Hancheng Song tombs in miscellaneous dramas have a relatively fixed programmatic pattern,and their roles are,from right to left,Zhuanggu,Fumo,Fujing,Fujing and,Moni.The Zhuanggu character resembles the image of Song dynasty officials,featuring hairpin and black turban,and wearing a red round-necked,big-sleeved robe;the Fumo character is wearing round-necked,red,slit robes with comical and amusing costumes and signifying behaviours;and the two Fujing characters are similarly dressed,both in grey and blue,with head masks or special facial make-up to enhance the comical and amusing features;the Moni character wearing a footless turban and a round-necked black narrow-sleeved robe is responsible for hosting the performances in the miscellaneous dramas.Secondly,the costume

关 键 词：杂剧壁画 人物服饰 脚色名称 日常服饰 服饰时尚 服饰文化 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K879.41[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]