基于深度开发的丝麻面料色彩设计与创新  

Color Design and Innovation of Silk and Hemp Fabrics Based on In-depth Development

作　　者：尤士华 郭守雨 陈志光 葛超群 赵博[1] 马建伟[1] You Shihua;Guo Shouyu;Chen Zhiguang;Ge Chaoqun;Zhao Bo;Ma Jianwei(Qingdao University,Qingdao,266000;Qingdao Eros New Materials Co.,Ltd.,Qingdao,266000;Zhuhai Jianxuan Clothing Co.,Ltd.,Zhuhai,519000;Guangzhou EXCEPTION de MIXMIND Clothing Co.ltd.,Guangzho1u,,510000)

机构地区：[1]青岛大学,山东青岛266000 [2]青岛奥洛思新材料有限公司,山东青岛266000 [3]珠海建轩服装有限公司,广东珠海519000 [4]广州市例外服饰有限公司,广东广州510000

出　　处：《江苏丝绸》2025年第1期16-22,共7页Jiangsu Silk

摘　　要：丝麻面料作为集材料、工艺与艺术一体的产品,色彩设计在不同的历史时期具有不同的特征,探讨色彩特征,无法绕开纤维材料、工艺、纹样、流行趋势四大因素。而体现文化传统,文化自信的丝麻纹样和色彩设计却越来越少,国际高端品牌市场几乎难觅中国品牌的身影[1]。本文首先用一套创新逻辑对蚕丝和汉麻纤维特点深入研究,在面料结构设计上实现创新;然后结合面料结构在染整工艺方面,实现色彩的创新。色彩设计方法采用三原色配色原理及中国传统的五行相生的颜色搭配原理,开发正面衣为麻面,反面裳为丝面的三层空气层编织结构,以及丝麻皱布。发扬传统的配色观念,弘扬中国传统文化;同时参照了大卫·霍克尼色彩节奏及明亮饱和的色彩调性,采用秩序感较强的、有韵律的莫兰·迪色系,体现一种包容开放、兼收并蓄的麻+品牌文化和市场价值,实现产品与品牌形象的有效识别,诠释一种全新的色彩设计理念。Silk and hemp fabrics,as products that integrate materials,craftsmanship,and art,have different color design in different historical periods.Discussing the color features cannot be avoided from the four factors of fiber materials,craftsmanship,patterns,and trends.The sales and research and development of silk and hemp fabrics in China are mainly reflected in the study of color trends and pattern design.However,the silk and hemp patterns and color design that reflect cultural tradition and cultural confidence are becoming less and less.It is difficult to find the figure of Chinese brands in the international high-end market.This thesis first uses an innovative logic:deeply studying the characteristics of silk and hemp fibers,and achieving innovation in fabric structure design;then combining the fabric structure in dyeing and finishing processes,achieving innovation in color.The color design method uses the principle of three primary colors and the traditional Chinese color matching principle of the five elements,and develops a three-layer air layer weaving structure with the front as hemp surface and the back as silk surface,as well as silk and hemp wrinkled fabrics,which upholds traditional color concepts and promotes Chinese traditional culture;at the same time,it refers to the color rhythm of David Hockney and the bright and saturated color tone,and adopts the Morandi color system with a stronger sense of order and rhythm,reflecting a kind of inclusive and open,integrative market value and brand culture of"M+",and achieving effective identification of products and brand image,interpreting a new color design concept.

关 键 词：丝麻面料 色彩设计 三原色 五行相生 色彩搭配 品牌文化 市场价值 

分 类 号：TQ616.9[化学工程—精细化工]