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作 者:杨道圣 Yang Daosheng
机构地区:[1]北京服装学院美术学院
出 处:《艺术设计研究》2025年第1期26-30,132,133,共7页Art & Design Research
基 金:市属高校分类发展——北京服装学院——服装学“新兴交叉学科平台建设项目”(项目编号:11000024T000003073871)的阶段性成果。
摘 要:绘画中的服装是服装史研究所依赖的最重要的材料,它虽不能等同于现实中的服装,但在一定程度上反映了现实的服装。绘画中着装的人物表达了特定时代理想的着装形象,并因此带动了当时时尚的发展。同时,服装还可以作为绘画的媒介,成为一种绘画创作的特殊方式,而着装的人也成为一种绘画展览的特殊方式。This paper represents a pioneering effort within the Chinese scholarly community to systematically and profoundly investigate the intricate connection between the art of painting and the evolution of clothing.It delves into the manner in which paintings not only reflect but also actively shape the historical trajectory and aesthetic inclinations of attire.The article commences by emphasizing the significance of depictions of clothing within paintings as a valuable resource for the study of sartorial history.These representations serve a dual purpose:they not only mirror the attire of the real world but also,to a certain degree,encapsulate the aspirational fashion ideals of a particular epoch.Through a meticulous examination of renowned artworks from both Western and Eastern cultural backgrounds,the paper illustrates how paintings illuminate the color palettes,silhouettes,and stylistic elements of clothing from various historical eras.Furthermore,the paper embarks on an exploration of the manner in which painting has the power to mold fashion trends.By dissecting the influence of idealized figures depicted in paintings,such as the impact of the Greek sculpture Apollo Belvedere on the fashion of 18th-century men,the paper highlights that the figures portrayed in artworks can readily become paragons of style,emulated in real life,thereby catalyzing shifts and advancements in the realm of fashion.Additionally,the paper examines the reciprocal influence between painting and the design of clothing,noting that numerous artists have also dabbled in the field of fashion design.The styles of clothing depicted in paintings have also exerted a profound influence on subsequent portrait paintings.At the conclusion,the paper introduces the notion of clothing as a form of painting,positing that attire can be perceived as a unique genre of pictorial art.In this conceptualization,fabric serves as the canvas,while thread acts as the brush and ink,allowing for the creation of images on fabric that are as captivating as those found i
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