清末民初服饰变迁的法律审视  

Legal Perspectives on the Changes in Clothing from the Late Qing to the Early Republic

作　　者：雷园园 闫东[1] Lei Yuanyuan;Yan Dong

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院马克思主义学院

出　　处：《艺术设计研究》2025年第1期49-56,135,136,共10页Art & Design Research

基　　金：北京高校思想政治工作研究课题“中华服饰文化融入研究生思政课的路径研究”(项目编号:BJSZ2024YB39);北京服装学院高水平教师队伍建设专项资金支持项目“习近平法治思想的传统法律文化溯源研究”(项目编号:BIFTXJ202247)的阶段性成果。

摘　　要：清末民初是中国历史上新旧更迭的重要转捩期,传统与现代的对决、礼教与法理的冲突、个人与社会的进退通过服装得以自由地呈现。洋服东渐之下,新颖的纹饰、大胆的色彩、别出心裁的衣型不仅是审美视角的突围,亦是中西法律传统交融互鉴的直观表达,是中国人由臣民而国民的心理映射,是人的主体意识和自由意志的觉醒。同时,中国的法律现代化运动彻底颠覆了衣冠用以“昭名分,辨等威”的功用,创生了新式着装习惯;权利和义务的重新分配成为服饰行为选择的重要依据;身体法权的建构使得国人之服饰开始具有了国际化的发展面向,并影响至今。革除旧习、树立新风、塑造新型国民形象,从清末民初之服饰开始渐次展开。Clothing is not about the garment itself but about the thoughts behind it;the change in clothing reflects a change in mindset.This article focuses on the changes in clothing during the late Qing Dynasty and early Republican period,using them as a lens to examine the impact and shaping of individual behaviors and values by the legal modernization movement.The study aims to promote an integrated,interactive,and temporal perspective on the cultural phenomenon of clothing transformation,and to highlight how the current“Chinese fashion trend”and the rise of“new Chinese style”fashion reflect changes in people’s concepts of rights,identity,and legal consciousness.The article employs a literature review to illustrate the core of the Chinese legal system,which emphasizes the integration of ritual and law.It also adopts sociological and anthropological perspectives to demonstrate how rulers used dress codes to reinforce social hierarchies throughout history,thereby ensuring a ritualistic order of society,wherein“one’s attire signifies the social rank and one’s insignia indicates power.”Comparative analysis is used to showcase the differences in clothing customs across different periods and cultures.The late Qing Dynasty and early Republic were pivotal periods in Chinese history,characterized by significant transitions between old and new systems.The influx of Western influence gradually weakened the legal system that upheld traditional ritual-based social order.This shift manifested in the appearance of irregular clothing styles and unconventional attire.For instance,the adoption and popularization of Western suits,the Chinese-style“Zhongshan suit,”the Qipao(cheongsam),and the“civilized new attire”all contributed to the erosion of the ritualistic function of clothing.The spontaneous selection of bright colors,such as yellow and red,by the common people further reflected this dissolution of traditional norms.Such fashion trends were a reflection of the broader societal changes of the time,including

关 键 词：服饰变迁 缘法以礼 西法东渐 主体意识 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]