轻薄提花牛仔面料的设计  

Design of lightweight jacquard denim fabric

作　　者：谭冬宜[1] 岳妍 汪泽幸[1] 王坤[1] 洪彩丽 TAN Dongyi;YUE Yan;WANG Zexing;WANG Kun;HONG Caili(Hunan Institute of Engineering,Xiangtan,411104,China)

机构地区：[1]湖南工程学院,湖南湘潭411104

出　　处：《棉纺织技术》2025年第4期76-80,共5页Cotton Textile Technology

基　　金：湖南省教育厅重点科研项目(23A0534);湖南省自然科学基金项目(2021JJ50109);湖南工程学院研究生教改项目(YJSJG2023-4)。

摘　　要：为更好地满足市场对牛仔时尚、轻薄的需求,总结了轻薄提花牛仔面料的设计方法。以C 27.5 tex靛蓝色纱为经纱,C 27.5 tex本色纱为纬纱,将透孔组织、方平、变化经重平等与二上一下右斜纹组织相结合,设计了纵条提花、格形提花及斜向提花3类共6种轻薄提花牛仔面料试样。测试结果表明:6种试样单位面积质量均在136 g/m^(2)~272 g/m^(2)间,实现了轻薄提花牛仔面料的开发。认为:采用空筘穿法、较小的织物紧度以及较细的经纱纬纱是开发轻薄提花牛仔面料的关键。In order to better meet the market demand for fashionable and lightweight denim fabric,the design methods of lightweight jacquard denim fabric were summarized.C 27.5 tex indigo yarn was used as the warp and C 27.5 tex beyber yarn as the weft,three types of lightweight denim fabrics,including vertical strip jacquard,lattice jacquard and oblique jacquard were designed.Six fabric samples were developed by combining mesh weave,basket weave and warp rib weave.The test results showed that the mass per unit of the six samples was 136 g/m^(2)~272 g/m^(2),development of light jacquard denim fabric was achieved.It is considered that the key points to develop lightweight jacquard denim is the use of hollow denting,smaller fabric tightness,finer warp and weft.

关 键 词：牛仔面料 织物紧度 经密 纬密 提花组织 透孔组织 单位面积质量 

分 类 号：TS115.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]