楚服色彩构成及成因探析  

Analysis on Color Composition and Causes of Chu Clothing

作　　者：柴瑾 李强 李亚蕙[1] CHAI Jin;LI Qiang;LI Yahui(School of Fashion,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430073,China;Editorial Department of Journal,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan,Hubei 430073,China;School of Fashion Design,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,Jiangxi,Nanchang 330201,China;School of Textile and Clothing,Xinjiang University,Urumqi,Xinjiang 830046,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学学报编辑部,湖北武汉430073 [3]江西服装学院服装设计学院,江西南昌330201 [4]新疆大学纺织与服装学院,新疆乌鲁木齐830046

出　　处：《浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报》2025年第1期25-32,共8页Journal of Zhejiang Fashion Institute of Technology

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划项目(21YJA760032)。

摘　　要：文章围绕楚地服饰展开,通过墓葬出土实物与古籍文献复现楚人服饰面貌,深入挖掘服饰色彩的构成规律。分析认为:(1)楚服以织物为载体,楚地服饰主要是以红黄色系为主,其中黄色多见于绢,红色多见于锦。虽有楚人“尚赤”说法,但服饰中棕色却更为常见。(2)根据墓葬出土服饰与女俑及彩绘漆器上的服饰进行对比可知,不同等级的服饰用色已有区分。贵族服饰以黄色为地,而以女俑为代表的奴婢伎乐多用黑色,另外,楚国大众的服色以青蓝为主。(3)分析楚人服色形成原因,首先楚人的信巫风俗影响着对赤黑二色的使用,具体来说楚人对色彩的选择与楚国巫术祭祀活动的过程及情境相关联。其次,楚国的服饰礼制氛围宽松有利于服饰审美特性的发展。同时染织业的发展、大量色彩的出现促进服色的多样化呈现。最后,借服色以维护等级制度,体现在以服色用赤来凸显身份。This paper focuses on Chu clothing,reproduces the appearance of Chu clothing through the objects unearthed in tombs and ancient books and documents,and digs deeply into the composition law of clothing color.The analysis are as follows.First,Chu clothing is based on fabrics,mainly in red and yellow,among which yellow is mostly seen in silk and red is mostly seen in brocade.Although Chu people are said to be in favor of red,brown color is more common in clothing.Second,according to the comparison between the costumes unearthed in tombs and those on the terra-cotta women and painted lacquerware,it can be seen that the colors used in clothing of different classes have been distinguished.The aristocratic costume is yellow,while the slave ma-idservants represented by the terra-cotta women are mostly black.In addition,the Chu people's clothing color is mainly blue.Third,the causes for the formation ofChu people's clothing colors are analyzed.Firstly,the Chu people's beliefin witchcraft influenced the use of red and black colors.Specifically,Chu people's selection of colors was related to the process and situation ofChu's witchcraft sacrifice activities.Secondly,the relaxed atmosphere ofChu's costume etiquette is conducive to the devel-opment of the aesthetic characteristics of costume.At the same time,the development of dyeing and weaving industry and the emergence of a large number of colors promote the diversification of costume colors.Finally,color was used to maintain the hier-archy,which was reflected in the use of red color to highlight the identity.

关 键 词：楚国 女性服饰 服饰色彩 服饰礼制 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]