唐代折枝花卉纹锦半臂结构研究与虚拟场景复原  

Structural study and virtual scene restoration of half-arm of Tang Dynasty brocade with sprig flower patterns

作　　者：谷雨珊 刘大玮 GU Yushan;LIU Dawei(School of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Key Laboratory of Archaeological Sciences and Cultural Heritage,Chinese Academy of Social Sciences,Beijing 100710,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院,北京100029 [2]中国社会科学院科技考古与文化遗产保护重点实验室,北京100710

出　　处：《东华大学学报(社会科学版)》2025年第1期66-75,共10页Journal of Donghua University:Social Science

基　　金：中国社会科学院考古研究所创新工程“西北地区出土古代织物的田野提取与实验室清理保护研究”(项目编号:2021KGYG023);中国社会科学院研究所实验室综合资助项目“科技考古实验室”(项目编号:2024SYZH002);广东省广州市科技计划项目“基于静电纺丝技术的出土纺织品保护”(项目编号:E030301);北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院“服装文化遗产传承与创新”微专业(项目编号:110105000515)。

摘　　要：通过对青海都兰热水墓群出土的唐代折枝花卉纹锦半臂的科学检测分析和图像资料综合研究,揭示了丝绸之路青海道沿线在唐代的纺织技术和文化交流情况。结合现代技术显微镜、红外光谱仪、超高效液相色谱仪及哈式切片器等,精确复原样本的材质、结构、纹样、色彩和造型等物理特征,同时,深入分析样本的织造工艺和面料剪裁,在复原过程中力求还原其原始状态。由于半臂并不单独出现,其通常与其他衣物组合出现在特定场景中,故以棺板画为场景复原参考,将样本与场景密切结合,再现了吐蕃统治下吐谷浑的生活场景。The half-arm of Tang Dynasty brocade with sprig flowers pattern unearthed from the hot water tomb cluster in Dulan,Qinghai reveals the textile technology and cultural exchange along the Qinghai Road of the Silk Road in the Tang Dynasty through the scientific testing and analysis of the physical objects and the comprehensive study of the image data.Combined with modern technology microscope,infrared spectrometer,ultra-high performance liquid chromatography instrument and Ha slicer,etc.,the physical characteristics of the sample such as material,structure,pattern,color and shape are precisely restored,meanwhile,in-depth analysis of the sample’s fabric weaving and cutting process is conducted,aiming at restoring its original state as much as possible in the process of restoration.Since the half-arm does not appear alone,but usually combined with other clothes in a specific scene,the coffin prints are used as a reference for scene restoration to closely combine the samples with the scene and reproduce the life scene of the Tugukhun under the rule of the Tubo.

关 键 词：半臂 服装结构 场景复原 唐代 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]