松江紫花布:文化内涵与纹样美学析论  

ongjiang ZiHuabu:Analysis of cultural connotation and pattern aesthetics

作　　者：张瀛月 茅丹 ZHANG Yingyue;MAO Dan(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《东华大学学报(社会科学版)》2025年第1期76-86,共11页Journal of Donghua University:Social Science

摘　　要：紫花布是松江布中尤为特别的一种,其原料紫花棉具有天然的淡棕色泽。紫花布其因独特的颜色和优良的品质作为海上丝绸之路重要贸易品出口各国,于明清时期成为欧洲贵族时尚的象征。该文以松江紫花布为研究对象,结合松江布展示馆馆藏、民间收藏的紫花布实物资料,通过实物研究和文献考证相结合的方法,深入探讨了松江紫花布的文化内涵与纹样美学。松江紫花布的文化内涵深刻映射了中国传统优秀纺织业的文明维度,它不仅是工艺改革与经济发展的象征,还是海上丝绸之路文化交流的纽带,更是民间审美与婚嫁习俗的载体。在纹样结构层面,紫花棉与白棉、染色棉形成的条纹结构和一字形、田字形、十字形、井字形、芦扉花组合形的格纹结构展现了简洁质朴之美;在纹样色彩层面,紫花棉布拥有天然本色(淡棕)之美,并与其他染色棉构成松江文化(蓝、绿)、繁荣丰收(红)的和谐丰富之美,为保护和传承这一珍贵的纺织品提供了参考依据。ZiHuabu is a particularly distinctive type of Songjiang fabric,crafted from purple-flowered cotton that naturally exhibits a light brown hue.Renowned for its unique color and superior quality,ZiHuabu became a crucial commodity exported via the Maritime Silk Road and evolved into a symbol of aristocratic fashion in Europe during the Ming and Qing dynasties.This study focuses on Songjiang ZiHuabu,utilizing physical specimens from the Songjiang Fabric Exhibition Hall and private collections.Through material analysis and textual research,it delves into the cultural significance and aesthetic patterns of this textile.The cultural essence of Songjiang ZiHuabu profoundly reflects the excellence of traditional Chinese textile craftsmanship.It not only embodies technological innovation and economic development but also serves as a cultural bridge along the Maritime Silk Road and a medium for folk aesthetics and matrimonial customs.Structurally,its patterns showcase simplicity and elegance through striped designs formed by alternating Zi cotton with white or dyed cotton,as well as checkered motifs such as horizontal bars,grid squares,crosses,well-shaped lattices,and reed-veneer floral combinations.Chromatically,the natural light brown of Zi cotton harmonizes with dyed hues—blue and green representing Songjiang culture,and red symbolizing prosperity and harvest—to create a rich,cohesive visual language.These findings offer valuable insights for preserving and transmitting this precious textile heritage.

关 键 词：文化内涵 纹样美学 紫花布 松江布 文化价值 美学特征 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]