壬二酸在护肤品中的应用研究  

Applied Research of Azelaic Acid in Skin Care Products

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作  者:周示玉 沈培栋 马萍 张勇 Zhou Shiyu;Shen Peidong;Ma Ping;Zhang Yong(Hangzhou Hunter Biotechnology,Inc.,Hangzhou 310000,China;Osmun Biology Co.,Ltd.,Huzhou 313000,China)

机构地区:[1]杭州环特生物科技股份有限公司,浙江杭州310000 [2]欧诗漫生物股份有限公司,浙江湖州313000

出  处:《广东化工》2025年第6期154-156,共3页Guangdong Chemical Industry

摘  要:目的:利用斑马鱼技术和经皮吸收方法探索壬二酸及其改性成分的护肤品种的功效研究。方法:将痤疮丙酸杆菌进行体外培养,并植入斑马鱼体内诱导炎症产生,建立祛痘功效评价模型;利用斑马鱼黑色素变化情况建立美白功效评价方法;以Franz扩散池经皮吸收方法,探索物理和化学改性对壬二酸皮肤经皮吸收性能的影响。结论:壬二酸具有祛痘功效,但美白功效不显著;通过环糊精包裹处理后能有效促进壬二酸的经皮吸收并提升美白功效;通过化学处理成壬二酰胺单酰胺后,能显著改善经皮吸收,但未能明显提升美白功效。To explore the skin care effect of azelaic acid and its modified components by zebrafish technology and transdermal absorption method.Methods:Propionibacterium acnes was cultured in vitro and implanted into zebrafish to induce inflammation and establish an evaluation model of acne efficacy.The evaluation method of whitening efficacy was established based on the changes of melanin in zebrafish.The effects of physical and chemical modification on the percutaneous absorption of azelaic acid were investigated by using Franz diffusion cell.Results:Azelaic acid has anti-acne effect,but the whitening effect is not significant.The cyclodextrin coated treatment can effectively promote the transdermal absorption of azelaic acid and improve the whitening effect.After chemical treatment into azelamide monoamide,the transdermal absorption can be significantly improved,but the whitening effect can not be significantly improved.

关 键 词:壬二酸 壬二酰胺单酰胺 祛痘 美白 

分 类 号:TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]

 

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