时序分布的段彩竹节纱及三通道转杯成纱工艺设计  

Design of segment colored slub yarn with time series distribution andthree-channel rotor yarn forming process

作　　者：李金键 薛元 陈宥融 LI Jinjian;XUE Yuan;CHEN Yourong(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Zhejiang Taitan Co.,Ltd.,Shaoxing,Zhejiang 311800,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]浙江泰坦股份有限公司,浙江绍兴311800

出　　处：《纺织学报》2025年第3期72-81,共10页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：浙江省“尖兵”“领雁”研发攻关计划项目(2022C01188)。

摘　　要：为探索基于数控三通道转杯纺纱机纺制时序化段彩竹节纱的成纱工艺,分析了段彩竹节纱的外观特征,并对其形态结构与色彩参数进行表征;根据三通道数控转杯纺纱机成纱机制,分别建立了段彩竹节纱的基纱、粗节、细节的线密度、混合比以及色彩的数学模型;提出了用三通道数控纺纱机纺制段彩竹节纱粗细节的方法,同时建立了粗细节及其色彩的时序化分布模型。设计了8种时序化分布的段彩竹节纱外观形态及纺纱工艺,通过三通道数控转杯纺纱机HFX-03-T与KU482A型染色实验编织机制备出了对应的段彩竹节纱及其织物,并对纱线进行力学性能测试。结果表明,纱线各项指标均能达到FZ/T 12001—2015《转杯纺棉本色纱线》一等品等级规格。Objective As a combination of segment color yarn and slub yarn,segment colored slub yarn has multi-component changes in shape,structure and color,which gives textile and garment a stronger sense of color hierarchy and mechanism fullness,and provides new impetus for fabric design.At present,the methods of spinning segment colored slub yarn mainly focus on the ring spinning machine,but few reports on the rotor spinning segment colored slub yarn are known.In this paper,how to spin segment colored slub yarn with shape,structure and color timing changes by three-channel CNC rotor spinning is studied.Method Firstly,the linear density,twist,blending ratio,thick and thin knot and color of segment colored slub yarn were parametrically characterized and the corresponding mathematical model was established.Then,combined with the principle of yarn formation by three-channel CNC rotor spinning and the mechanism of yarn morphology regulation,the formation mechanism of thick and thin knot and segment color of segment colored slub yarn with spinning timing distribution was constructed based on the three-channel CNC rotor spinning machine.On this basis,eight different styles of segment colored slub yarn with timing distribution of thick knots and their fabrics were prepared,and the mechanical properties of the yarns were tested.Results In this study,eight types of segment-colored slub yarns were designed,comprising four with short slub segments(125.6 mm length)and four with long slub segments(1420 mm length).Among the four short-segment slub yarns,two types were blended from two colored fibers,while the other two incorporated three colored fibers.Compared to the two-color slub segments,the three-color variants demonstrated richer color expression and enhanced three-dimensional effects on fabric surfaces.Similarly,among the four long-segment slub yarns,two types were blended from three colored fibers,while the remaining two used two colored fibers.Each long-segment slub yarn featured two distinct color combination patterns,exhibit

关 键 词：段彩竹节纱 三通道转杯纺纱 纺纱工艺 时序化 粗细节 力学性能 

分 类 号：TS104.7[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]