针织呢绒织物绒面性质的测试方法  

Testing method of pile face properties forfelting knitted wool fabrics

作　　者：姚一婷 敖利民 张展望 苏友朋 YAO Yiting;AO Limin;ZHANG Zhanwang;SU Youpeng(Jiaxing Yuanchuang Textile Co.,Ltd.,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314001,China;College of Material and Textile Engineering,Jiaxing University,Jiaxing,Zhejiang 314001,China)

机构地区：[1]嘉兴市元创纺织有限公司,浙江嘉兴314001 [2]嘉兴大学材料与纺织工程学院,浙江嘉兴314001

出　　处：《纺织学报》2025年第3期100-108,共9页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：中国纺联团体标准计划项目(202205-CNTAC02)。

摘　　要：为探讨采用单面压缩法测试、表征针织呢绒面料绒面性质的可行性,对实现织物试样单面压缩的测试原理、装置要求进行了分析;给出了典型的针织呢绒织物压缩-返回过程曲线以及从曲线中提取特征参数的方法,并依此建立了表征绒面性质的指标体系;分析了压缩速度、试样预加张力和预处理条件等试验参数对测试结果的影响,并通过试验探讨了测试方法的可行性与可靠性。结果表明:采用单面压缩法的压缩曲线和返回曲线构建的指标体系,可以表征针织呢绒面料的绒面毛羽高度、柔软度和弹性;试样预加张力和预处理条件对测试结果有显著影响;试验方法能有效区分同一面料、不同剪毛工艺时的差异;对于采用相同剪毛工艺的不同面料,测试结果具有良好的一致性。Objective The pile face qualities of knitted woollen fabric include pile(hairiness)height,pile face softness and compressing elasticity,they are important components of fabric qualities which determine the luster,texture clarity,pilling resistance,as well as hand and tactile comfort of fabric,etc.The existing test methods related to fabric hairiness can only test the height or quantity of hairiness on fabric surface and are not applicable to testing knitted woollen fabric,and the evaluation of the pile properties currently still basically relies on experience of subjective evaluators.This research aims to investigate the feasibility using single side compression method to measure the characteristics of hairiness on the fabric surface of knitted woollen fabric,and construct indicator system to characterize the pile face properties.Method The principle of single side compression of fabric sample with set load were given,and the basic requirements of the testing device for achieving single side compression of fabric sample were analyzed.A typical compress ion-return process curve for knitted woollen fabric sample was shown,and the method was proposed for determining the boundary point between the compressing stage of the hairiness part and the main body of the fabric on the curve.Based on the compressing curve of the sample,indicators were extracted to characterize the single side compressing properties of the fabric,and further indicators were constructed to characterize the pile face properties.Single side compressing tests on selected samples were conducted,the influences of main experimental parameters such as sample tension,compression-return speed,sample pretreatment methods and conditions on the test results were compared.The feasibility of the testing method was investigated by experiments on the same variety of products with different shearing parameters,and the consistency of the test results was discussed by experiments on different varieties of products with the same shearing parameters.Results Using the

关 键 词：针织呢绒面料 绒面性质 单面压缩法 绒面毛羽高度 绒面柔软度 

分 类 号：TS186.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计] TS137[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]