流行文化的服装符码与形象系统建构  

The construction of clothing codes and image systems in pop culture

作　　者：郭锐 洪岩[2] GUO Rui;HONG yan(School of Fashion,Henan University of Engineering,Zhengzhou,Henan 450007,China;School of Textile and Garment Engineering,Soochow University,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215031,China)

机构地区：[1]河南工程学院服装学院,河南郑州450007 [2]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215031

出　　处：《印染》2025年第4期84-87,共4页China Dyeing and Finishing

基　　金：2022年河南兴文化工程文化研究专项项目“基于‘戏箱’考证的河南豫剧服饰谱系研究”(2022XWH167)。

摘　　要：以罗兰·巴特的符号学理论为基础,聚焦“意象服装”与“书写服装”概念,系统探讨服装符码在流行文化中的生成逻辑及其社会文化实践。研究指出,服装作为弱编码的多媒介文本,其符码建构依托动态的社会文化规约,通过“真实服装—意象服装—书写服装”的符号转换,形成兼具技术性与象征性的意义系统。“意象服装”通过视觉修辞塑造时尚幻想,而“书写服装”借助术语与描述强化符号价值,二者共同构建了时装的修辞体系与消费神话。Based on Roland Barthes′semiotic theory,the concepts of"symbolic clothing"and"written clothing"are focused on,and the generation logic and socio-cultural practices of clothing codes in popular culture are explored systematically.Research has shown that clothing,as a weakly encoded multimedia text,relies on dynamic social and cultural norms for its symbol construction.Through the symbol transformation of"real clothing-symbolic clothing-written clothing",a meaning system that combines both technical and symbolic aspects is formed."Imagery clothing"shapes fashion fantasies through visual rhetoric,while"written clothing"strengthens symbolic value through terminology and description,jointly constructing the rhetorical system and consumer myth of fashion.

关 键 词：意象服装书写服装 服装符码 形象系统 话语建构 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]