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作 者:徐杨 侯东昱[1] XU Yang;HOU Dongyu(Hebei University of Science and Technology,Shijiazhuang 050018,China)
出 处:《西部皮革》2025年第6期41-43,共3页West Leather
摘 要:清代马甲作为中国传统服饰的典型代表,其形制结构与装饰工艺集中体现了清代服饰文化的精髓,但当前面临工艺失传、现代服饰冲击等传承困境。文章以故宫博物院藏清代马甲实物为研究对象,结合文献分析与形制分类法,从外观形制和装饰工艺两个维度展开系统性研究。研究发现,清代马甲通过多样化的门襟设计、材质选择与装饰技法,既满足了实用需求,又承载了等级制度与吉祥寓意等文化内涵。其刺绣工艺以苏绣为代表,图案多蕴含福禄寿等传统符号;绲边与拼贴工艺则凸显了匠人对功能性与审美性的平衡。研究旨在总结清代马甲的美学价值与工艺特征,为传统服饰的当代传承与创新设计提供理论依据。As a quintessential representation of traditional Chinese clothing,the Qing Dynasty vest embodies the essence of Qing attire culture through its structural form and decorative techniques.However,it currently faces preservation challenges,including the loss of artisanal skills and the impact of modern fashion.This study systematically examines Qing Dynasty vests from the collections of the Palace Museum,employing textual analysis and morphological classification to investigate two dimensions:exterior structure and decorative craftsmanship.The research reveals that Qing Dynasty vests,through diverse front closure designs,material selections,and decorative techniques,not only fulfilled practical needs but also conveyed cultural meanings such as hierarchical distinctions and auspicious symbolism.The embroidery techniques—notably Suzhou embroidery—featured patterns imbued with traditional symbols of blessings,prosperity,and longevity,while piping and patchwork techniques demonstrated artisans'balance between functionality and aesthetics.This study aims to summarize the aesthetic value and technical characteristics of Qing Dynasty vests,providing theoretical foundations for the contemporary preservation and innovative redesign of traditional garments.
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