凉山美姑彝族女性服饰特征及其造物观念研究  

On the Characteristics of Yi Ethnic Women's Clothing in Meigu,Liangshan and Their Concept of Creation

作　　者：刘乐瑶(文/图) 周莹(文/图)[1] Liu Leyao;Zhou Ying

机构地区：[1]中央民族大学美术学院

出　　处：《中国民族美术》2025年第1期51-59,共9页CHINESE MINZU ART

基　　金：中央民族大学2024年博士研究生自主科研项目“彝族服饰审美文化研究”(项目编号:BZKY2024118)研究成果。

摘　　要：美姑作为凉山彝族自治州的腹心之地,是彝族传统文化保留较为完整的地区,其服饰更是具有突出的艺术特征。为探索凉山美姑彝族女性的服饰特征及其背后的造物观念,笔者以田野调查获取的美姑彝族女性服饰为实据,从服饰的结构造型、纹样色彩及其审美内涵等方面进行分析。研究表明:美姑彝族女子服饰体现了造物的实用性与惜物性这一双重理念,纹样与色彩的搭配更是蕴含着美姑彝族的历史文化、族群信仰与民俗生活等重要信息,是美姑彝族女子服饰造物之智的直接展现和文化传承的重要标志。As the core area of Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture,Meigu is a region where the traditional Yi culture is relatively wellpreserved,and its clothing has outstanding artistic features.In order to explore the clothing characteristics of Yi ethnic women in Meigu,Liangshan and the concept of creation behind them,the authors take the Yi ethnic women's clothing in Meigu obtained through field investigations as evidence and analyze it from aspects such as the structural shape,pattern colors and aesthetic connotations of the clothing.The research shows that the clothing of Yi ethnic women in Meigu reflects the dual concepts of the practicality of creation and the cherishing of objects.The collocation of patterns and colors contains important information such as the historical culture,ethnic beliefs and folk customs of the Yi ethnic group in Meigu,which is a direct display of the wisdom of clothing creation of Yi ethnic women in Meigu and an important symbol of cultural inheritance.

关 键 词：美姑彝族 造型结构 纹样特征 色彩搭配 造物观念 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]