清代宫衣革带形制流变与成因探析  

An analysis of the evolution and causes of leather girdles in Qing dynasty imperial robes

作　　者：郑亮 刘小庆 ZHENG Liang;LIU Xiaoqing(Department of Stage Design,National Academy of Chinese Theatre Arts,Beijing 100073,China)

机构地区：[1]中国戏曲学院舞台美术系,北京100073

出　　处：《西安工程大学学报》2025年第2期127-136,共10页Journal of Xi’an Polytechnic University

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学青年项目(2022CG00217)。

摘　　要：在清代戏曲服饰中,束带作为服饰的重要组成部分,具有实用功能和象征社会地位的作用。文中采取多重证据法和比较研究法,通过对不同博物馆藏的清代戏服束带实物与文献进行收集与整理,探究清代戏曲服饰束带的等级制度,以及清代宫衣革带的形制、纹饰及流变成因。得出:清代戏服束带的类型整体可归纳为4种,其中革带类是所有束带中等级最高且佩戴方式最具独特的类型,多用于帝王将相、神皇仙后、公主命妇等角色;革带的形制、纹样随宫衣款式的改变而改变,其经历了从简洁到复杂再到装饰趋于极致的演变过程,这一演变不仅反映了戏曲艺术的发展,也与当时统治者的审美观念和社会文化背景密切相关。宫衣革带的演变,从“由简入繁,从寡到奢”的轨迹,既是清代物质文化表观层面的艺术变迁,其实质也是清代社会发展“由盛转衰”的历史见证。In Qing dynasty theatrical costumes,the girdle is an important component,serving both a practical function and symbolizing social status.The method of multiple evidence and comparative research were adopted to explore the hierarchy of girdles in Qing dynasty opera costumes,and analyzed the shape,pattern,and evolution of leather girdles in Qing dynasty palace clothing.By collecting and sorting out the objects and documents related to Qing dynasty opera costume girdles from different museums.The results show that the types of Qing dynasty opera costume girdle can be summarized into four types as a whole,among which leather girdle are the highest-level and most unique type,mostly used for roles such as emperors,generals,gods,queens,princesses and ladies.The shape and pattern of the leather girdle change with the change of palace clothing style,and it experiences an evolution process from simplicity to complexity and then to extreme decoration.This evolution not only reflects the development of opera art,but is also closely related to the aesthetic concepts and social and cultural background of the rulers at that time.The transformation of leather girdles in imperial robes—from simplicity to complexity,and from frugality to extravagance—represents not only an artistic change on the surface of Qing material culture but also serves as historical evidence of the societal shift from prosperity to decline.

关 键 词：宫衣革带 戏曲服饰 清代演剧 形制流变 文化交融 

分 类 号：TS941.11[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]