清代汉族女子婚礼服饰形制流变  

The evolution of Han women′s wedding dress in Qing dynasty

作　　者：朱翠云 刘安定 孙艺欣[1] 马凤喜 ZHU Cuiyun;LIU Anding;SUN Yixin;MA Fengxi(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China;The Textile Culture Research Center,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学湖北省非物质文化遗产研究中心,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《西安工程大学学报》2025年第2期137-147,共11页Journal of Xi’an Polytechnic University

基　　金：湖北省教育厅哲学社会科学研究项目(22Y073)。

摘　　要：针对清代汉族女子婚礼服饰形制的问题,以现存清代命妇礼服画像和晚清留存的婚礼旧照片为研究对象,采用文献资料与图像结合的方法,对清代汉族女子婚服形制变化进行深入分析。研究表明:汉族女子婚礼主服通常为凤冠霞帔、袄衫、马面裙和小脚鞋的搭配。清中后期,云肩逐渐流行与霞帔组合,凤冠形制演变为半冠式,霞帔演变为“背心式”。袄衫逐渐融入满族服饰元素,马面裙演变为百褶裙、襕干裙、凤尾裙及月华裙等裙式。研究结果为我国传统婚服形制的研究提供一定参考。Aiming at the issue of the shape of Han women′s wedding dresses in the Qing dynasty,The existing portraits of women′s dress in the Qing dynasty and the old wedding photos retained from the late Qing dynasty were made as research objects in this study.By integrating textual research with visual analysis,an in-depth exploration of the evolution of Han women′s wedding dress shapes were conducted during the Qing dynasty.The research shows that the Han women′s wedding dress is usually a combination of phoenix coronet,jacket,horse-face skirts and small shoes.In the middle and late Qing dynasty,the cloud shoulder gradually became popular with the embrroidered cape combination,the phoenix coronet shape evolved into a semi-crown type,and the embrroidered cape evolved into a"vest-like".The jacket gradually integrated into the Manchu costume elements,and the horse-face skirts evolved into skirts such as pleated skirts,Langan skirts,phoenix-tailed skirts,and Yuehua skirts.The research conclusion has reference significance for the study of traditional wedding dress shape in China.

关 键 词：清代 汉族女性 传统婚服 凤冠霞帔 马面裙 云肩 

分 类 号：TS941.714[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]