清末杨金璧服饰形象设计研究——天津博物馆《翡翠蝈蝈白菜·前世传奇》  

Costume Image Design of Yang Jinbi in the Late Qing Dynasty:the Previous Life Legend of"Jadeite Cabbage with Grasshoppers and Crickets"in Tianjin Museum

作　　者：龙怡忻 张婷 LONG Yixin;ZHANG Ting(School of Art,Soochow University,Jiangsu Suzhou 215000,China;Beijing Yiting Wanying Culture Media Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 100000,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学艺术学院,江苏苏州215000 [2]北京艺婷万影文化传媒有限公司,北京100000

出　　处：《工业工程设计》2025年第2期62-67,共6页INDUSTRIAL&ENGINEERING DESIGN

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(20BG119)。

摘　　要：《国家宝藏》第四季第四期呈现了一件名为《翡翠蝈蝈白菜》的国宝,在《翡翠蝈蝈白菜·前世传奇》剧场中,以清末历史时期为时代背景,设定天津人杨金璧为《翡翠蝈蝈白菜》的创作人。这一场剧立足于以杨金璧这一小人物的原生态纪实,生动反映了早期津派玉雕人创业、守业和兴业的心路历程。服饰既是时代精神风貌以及人物社会身份的载体,也是人物精神气质与品德的化身。参照清代服饰规制、旧时照片和文献资料,结合服饰实物与人物精神,对杨金璧的服饰形制、面料、色彩等方面进行了具体分析。通过形制、面料来着重展现杨金璧的时代形象与社会形象,通过色彩等来反映人物“璞玉雕琢成器”般的精神气质与品德,探索清末男性民间服饰风尚。The fourth season and fourth issue of"National Treasure"presents a national treasure called"Jade Grasshopper Cabbage".In the theater of"Jade Grasshopper Cabbage:Legend of the Past Life",Yang Jinbi,a Tianjin native,is set as the creator of"Jade Grasshopper Cabbage"in the historical background of the late Qing Dynasty.Based on the original ecological documentary of Yang Jinbi,a little-known figure,it vividly reflects the mental journey of the early Tianjin-style jade carvers in starting,maintaining,and developing businesses.Based on the original ecological documentary of Yang Jinbi,a little-known figure,it vividly reflects the mental journey of the early Tianjinstyle jade carvers in starting,maintaining,and developing businesses.Costumes are not only the carriers of the spiritual features of the times and the social identities of characters,but also the embodiments of the spiritual temperament and moral characters.Referring to the costume regulations of the Qing Dynasty,old photos,and documentary materials,and combining the actual costumes and the spirit of the characters,a specific analysis is conducted on the costume shape,fabric,color,and other aspects of Yang Jinbi.This scheme focuses on presenting Yang Jinbi's image of the times and social image through the shape and fabric,to reflect the character's spiritual temperament and moral character like"a piece of unpolished jade carved into a fine piece"through colors,etc.,and explore the fashion of folk costumes for men in the late Qing Dynasty.

关 键 词：清末天津 杨金璧 璞玉 男性服饰 津派玉雕人 

分 类 号：J523[艺术—艺术设计]