明代品官常服刍议  

Discussion on the Official Costume in the Ming Dynasty

作　　者：丁培利 王亚蓉[2] 贾荣林[3] Ding Peili;Wang Yarong;Jia Ronglin

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆 [2]中国社会科学院考古研究所 [3]北京服装学院

出　　处：《南方文物》2025年第1期232-240,共9页Cultural Relics in Southern China

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学一般项目(项目编号:21BG115);北京市属高校分类发展-北京服装学院“服装学”新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(项目编号:11000024T000003073871);教育部人文社会科学青年基金项目(项目编号:23YJC760026)。

摘　　要：明代品官常服是官员们“常朝视事”时所穿,穿用时间和范围非常广泛。明代对官服制作的管理非常严格,对形制、补子花样、材质等做了详细规定。通常,常服作为明代官员朝参办公的指定服饰,但在入殓、祭祀时也有穿着常服的情况。此外,品官常服还成为皇帝恩赏“赐服”、官官及官商之间交往送礼的重要物品。随着明中期商品经济的发展,部分商人通过“捐纳”越阶成为“新型官僚”,对明代森严的官服制度和社会秩序形成冲击,也使品官常服有了新的内涵。In the Ming Dynasty,the official costume is worn by officials with a wide range of usage.The management of the official clothing production in the Ming Dynasty was very strict,with detailed regulations on form,patterns of insignia,materials,and more.Generally,official clothing served as the designated attire for Ming oficials during court assembly,but it was also worn during enshrouding and sacrifices.In addition,the official clothing became an important item for imperial rewards("bestowed clothing")and for exchanges among officials or official-merchant interactions.With the development of the commodity economy in the mid-Ming period,some merchants evolved into a"new type of bureaucrat"by means of"donation",which impacted the strict official costume system and social order of the Ming dynasty,and also gave new meaning to the official costume.

关 键 词：品官常服 朝参 赐服 

分 类 号：K248[历史地理—历史学] TS941.12[历史地理—中国史]