文化整体性视域下的墨脱门巴族服饰  

The Clothing of the Monba Ethnic Group in Medog from the Perspective of Cultural Integrity

作　　者：格茸扎什 sKal-bzang bKra-shis

机构地区：[1]四川大学历史文化学院,成都610064

出　　处：《中国藏学》2025年第1期39-49,212,共12页China Tibetology

摘　　要：关于墨脱门巴族服饰的已有研究侧重于概述服饰的类别和制作技艺。2018年“墨脱门巴族服饰”作为民俗类项目入选西藏自治区“第五批自治区级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录”后,研究重点转向探讨服饰的整体性意涵。文章基于实地调查,系统梳理了墨脱门巴族服饰的组成、使用方式和制作技艺,并结合气候、物质生产等自然环境因素和社会结构、性别分工模式和社会性别角色等社会文化特性,揭示作为非物质文化遗产的“墨脱门巴族服饰”具备的整体性意涵。得出如下结论:一是服饰的使用以使用场景、性别和年龄为区别特征,其中节庆盛装是墨脱门巴族服饰中最突出的部分;二是形成了以棉纺织为核心的服饰制作技艺,包括纺纱、染纱、整经、织布等主要步骤,且服装原材料的选择与自然地理环境相适应;三是男性的服装与社会性别分工相对应,而女性的饰品与社会性别角色的认知相关,是家屋丰产属性的标识;四是节庆盛装揭示了家屋内外的社会关系,婚礼是新婚夫妻穿着完整版盛装的起始点,对应家屋事务主导权的转移,盛装作为家屋声誉和财富的有形表征物,用于家屋间的声望竞争;五是服饰体现了墨脱门巴族与藏族、珞巴族间的交往交流交融,墨脱门巴族与藏族服饰在服装款式和饰品类别方面的相似度较高,珞巴族则通过物质交换为门巴族提供了棉纤维原料。Previous studies on the clothing of the Monba ethnic group in Medog have mainly focused on outlining the categories and production techniques of the clothing.In 2018,"The Clothing of the Monba Ethnic Group in Medog"was included in the"List of Representative Items of the Fifth Batch of Autonomous Region-level Intangible Cultural Heritage"in Xizang Autonomous Region as a folklore item.Since then,the research focus has shifted to exploring the holistic connotations of the clothing.Based on field investigations,this paper systematically sorts out the composition,usage patterns,and production techniques of the clothing of the Monba ethnic group in Medog.By combining natural environmental factors such as climate and material production,as well as social and cultural characteristics such as social structure,gender division of labor patterns,and gender roles,it reveals the holistic connotations of"The Clothing of the Monba Ethnic Group in Medog"as an intangible cultural heritage.The following conclusions are drawn:firstly,the use of clothing is distinguished by usage scenarios,gender,and age,among which the festive costumes are the most prominent part of the clothing of the Monba ethnic group in Medog.Secondly,a set of clothing production techniques with cotton textile as the core has been formed,including the main steps such as spinning,dyeing yarn,warping,and weaving,and the selection of clothing raw materials is adapted to the natural geographical environment.Thirdly,the clothing of men corresponds to the gender division of labor in society,while the accessories of women are related to the perception of gender roles and are symbols of the productive attributes of the household.Fourthly,the festive costumes reveal the social relations inside and outside the household.The wedding is the starting point for newlyweds to wear the complete set of festive costumes,corresponding to the transfer of the dominance of household affairs.As a tangible representation of the reputation and wealth of the household,the festive costumes

关 键 词：墨脱门巴族服饰 非物质文化遗产 文化整体性 

分 类 号：K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]