全成形立体横编鞋材的设计与编织  

Fully Shaped Three Dimensional Shoe Material Design Knitting

作　　者：顾文敏 蒋高明[1] 吴光军 李炳贤 Gu Wenmin;Jiang Gaoming;Wu Guangjun;Li Bingxian(Engineering Research Center for Kntting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2025年第4期22-26,共5页Knitting Industries

基　　金：无锡市基础研究项目(K20241032)。

摘　　要：文章从耐磨性、加厚性和透气性3个方面对全成形立体横编鞋材进行了全面设计。在功能区域设计中,分别采用不同的组织结构以满足各部分的功能需求;在样板设计阶段,利用ShoeMaker软件绘制并处理鞋檀和展平图,确保鞋材尺寸符合实际需求,并通过1:1打印进行验证;组织结构设计方面,详细探讨各种织物组织的特点及其在运动鞋材中的应用方式,确保最终产品兼具功能性与装饰性。在编织工艺上,采用了C形编织、圆筒编织以及局部编织等多种技术,特别针对起底、脚后跟、鞋帮、口门和鞋头等关键部位进行了工艺说明。最后通过试织测密确定最佳编织参数,并借助先进的四针床电脑横机完成了样品制作,为全成形立体横编鞋材的设计提供参考。This paper provides a comprehensive design for fully-formed three-dimensional flat-knitted shoe materials focusing on wear resistance,thickness enhancement,and breathability.Firstly,in the functional area design,different organizational structures are adopted to meet the functional requirements of each part.Secondly,during the patern design phase,ShoeMaker software is utilized to draw and process the lasts and flattened diagrams,ensuring that the dimensions of the shoe materials meet actual needs,and 1:1 printing is used for verification.Furthermore,in terms of organizational structure design,various fabric structures and their applications in sports shoe materials are thoroughly explored to ensure that the final product combines functionality with aesthetics.Additionally,multiple techniques such as C-shaped knitting,tubular knitting,and localized kniting are employed in the kniting process,with particular attention given to key areas like starting base,heel,shoe upper,vamp opening,and toe cap through detailed process descriptions.Finally,optimal knitting parameters are determined through trial weaving and density testing,and advanced four-bed computerized flat knitting machines are used to complete the sample production.It provides reference for fully shaped three dimensional shoe material design.

关 键 词：横编鞋材 全成形 立体鞋面 样板设计 功能分区 组织结构 编织工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]