从祥瑞表征到仪礼标识:传统服饰织绣嘉禾纹饰的设计演变  

From Auspicious Representation to Ritual Symbols:The Design Evolution of The Traditional Clothing Embroidery Jiahe Pattern

作　　者：麻湘萍[1,2] 王志成 MA Xiang-ping;WANG Zhi-cheng(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 311199;Research Center for Digital Style and Creative Design,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 311199)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州311199 [2]浙江理工大学数智风格与创意设计研究中心,浙江杭州311199

出　　处：《艺术百家》2025年第1期159-168,共10页Hundred Schools In Arts

基　　金：2024年度浙江省哲学社会科学规划青年课题重点项目“唐代汉族女性服饰艺术表征及文化融合研究”(项目编号:24NDQN21Z);2023年度国家社会科学基金后期资助重点项目“线韵营造:近代服饰的造型构造及装饰工巧研究”(项目编号:23FYSA004)阶段性成果之一。

摘　　要：文章分析传统嘉禾纹的起源、发展、构成及内涵等问题。通过相关文献、图像及实物互证可知,明代以前,指代祥瑞的“嘉禾献瑞”图形图像是后世织绣服饰中嘉禾纹的前身。明清时期,嘉禾纹通过与灯笼纹等组合,构成元宵时令服的“灯景”纹饰,开始出现在织物及帨、袜等服饰用品中,衍生出五谷丰登的符号意义,并在清末发展为由嘉禾抱合环绕的团型构图,此时嘉禾纹仍作为祥瑞的表征。民国初期,一方面,嘉禾纹与鹤纹、牡丹纹等组合成团纹,以八团、十团等构图,成为女性礼服中刺绣纹饰的代表范式;另一方面,嘉禾纹应用于男性官员公服及勋章配饰的纹饰设计中,赋予其民主共和的时代意涵,使其成为经典的礼仪标识符号。The article analyzes the origin,development,composition and connotation of the traditional Jiahe pattern.Through relevant literature,images and objects,it can be seen that,before the Ming Dynasty,the graphic image,which refers to auspiciousness,was the predecessor of the Jiahe pattern of the later generations of embroidered gar-ments.During the Ming and Qing dynasties,Jiahe began to appear in the fabric and handkerchiefs,socks and other apparel items,derived from the"grains and fecundity"symbols referred to,and in the late Qing dynasty for the de-velopment of the jiahe embrace surrounded by the group type of composition,at this time is still the auspicious"jiahe dedication"graphic image is the predecessor of the later generations of embroidered clothing jiahe grain.Composi-tion,at this time,Jiahe pattern is still as a symbol of auspiciousness.In the early period of the Republic of China,on the one hand,the Jiahe pattern was combined with the crane pattern and the peony pattern to form the group pattern,and became the representative paradigm of embroidery pattern for women's dresses;on the other hand,the Jiahe pat-tern was applied to the design of the pattern of male officials'official uniforms and medals,which endowed the pattern with the connotation of the era of democracy and republicanism,and became the classic ceremonial symbols.

关 键 词：嘉禾纹 服饰织绣 设计演变 祥瑞表征 仪礼标识 

分 类 号：J501[艺术—艺术设计]