Reduction in wave shoaling over a linear transition bottom using a porous medium  

作　　者：Ikha Magdalena Ivan Jonathan Kristianto Hany Q.Rif’atin Amila Sandaruwan Ratnayaked Cherdvong Saengsupavaniche I.Solekhudin M.Helmi 

机构地区：[1]Faculty of Mathematics and Natural Sciences,Bandung Institute of Technology,Bandung 40132,Indonesia [2]Center for Marine and Coastal Development,Bandung Institute of Technology,Bandung 40132,Indonesia [3]Center for Mathematical Modelling and Simulations,Bandung Institute of Technology,Bandung 40132,Indonesia [4]Faculty of Applied Sciences,Uva Wellassa University,Badulla 90000,Sri Lanka [5]Faculty of International Maritime Studies,Kasetsart University,Sri Racha Campus,Chonburi 20230,Thailand [6]Department of Mathematics,Gadjah Mada University,Yogyakarta 55281,Indonesia [7]Department of Oceanography,Faculty of Fisheries and Marine Science,Universitas Diponegoro,Semarang 50275,Indonesia

出　　处：《Theoretical & Applied Mechanics Letters》2025年第1期17-24,共8页力学快报(英文版)

基　　金：support from Program Riset Kolaborasi Indonesia(RKI)2024(Grant No.1841/IT1.B07.1/TA.00/2024).

摘　　要：Wave shoaling,which involves an increase in wave amplitude due to changes in water depth,can damage shore-lines.To mitigate this damage,we propose using porous structures such as mangrove forests.In this study,we use a mathematical model to examine how mangroves,acting as porous breakwater,can reduce wave shoaling amplitude.The shallow water equations are used as the governing equations and are modified to account for the presence of porous media.To measure the wave reduction generated by the porous media,the wave transmis-sion coefficient is estimated using analytical and numerical approaches.The separation of variables method and the staggered finite volume method are utilized for each approach,respectively.The numerical results are then validated against the previously obtained analytical solutions.We then vary the friction and porosity parame-ters-determined by the presence and extent of porous media,to evaluate their effectiveness in reducing wave shoaling.

关 键 词：Wave shoaling Porous breakwater Linear shallow water equations Wave transmission coefficient Finite volume method 

分 类 号：O35[理学—流体力学]