羊毛/涤纶交织单向导湿纬编双面织物结构设计  

Structure design of wool and polyester interknitted weft knitted double-sided fabric with unidirectional moisture transport

作　　者：朱梦慧 董智佳 赵克政 谢新月 朱一迪 ZHU Menghui;DONG Zhijia;ZHAO Kezheng;XIE Xinyue;ZHU Yidi(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2025年第4期1-7,共7页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(52373058,61902150);中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J202408)。

摘　　要：为了拓宽羊毛在运动服装中的应用,优选羊毛纱、普通涤纶和超细涤纶为原料,使用双面移圈无缝一体成形机开发4款羊毛纱分别显露在内、中、外不同位置且具备单向导湿功能的羊毛/涤纶交织纬编双面针织织物。详细介绍了织物的设计思路、原料选择、组织结构设计、编织工艺,并测试织物的透湿性、透气性、保温率、液态水分管理性能。采用模糊综合评价法分析并评价羊毛纱处于不同位置时羊毛纱/涤纶交织针织织物服用性能的优劣。结果表明:羊毛纱所处位置会对织物的性能产生影响;羊毛纱处于内侧及中间位置时,织物保温效果较好,但透气、透湿性能减弱,位于织物最外侧时则相反;将羊毛纱置于内层能有效改善织物单向导湿性能,相较于其在外层编织导湿效果更好;由综合评价可知,羊毛纱做面纱、普通涤纶做地纱共同编织织物内层,超细涤纶编织织物外层,所得织物综合性能最好。In order to expand the application of wool in sportswear,wool yarn,ordinary polyester,and micro polyester were selected as raw materials,and four types of wool and polyester interknitted weft double-sided fabrics with unidirectional moisture-conducting function,in which wool yarn was exposed to different positions in the sided,the middle,and the outside,were knitted on the double-sided transferring seamless one-piece forming machine.The design idea,raw material selection,structure design,and knitting process of the fabric were introduced in detail,and the moisture permeability,air permeability,heat preservation rate,and liquid water management performance of the fabric were tested.A fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method was used to analyze and evaluate the wearability of wool yarn and polyester interknitted fabrics in different positions.The results show that the position of the wool yarn affect the performance of the fabric.With wool yarn in the inner and middle positions,the insulating effect of the fabric was better,but the air and moisture permeability performance were weakened;located in the outermost part of the fabric was the opposite.Placing wool yarns in the inner layer improved the unidirectional moisture conductivity of the fabric,making it more effective than if it were knitted in the outer layer.The comprehensive evaluation demonstrated that the optimum performance of the fabric was achieved through the knitting of the inner layer with wool yarn as the plating yarn and ordinary polyester yarn as the ground yarn,while the outer layer was knitted with micro polyester.

关 键 词：纬编 羊毛/涤纶交织 单向导湿 双面织物 结构设计 

分 类 号：TS186.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]