古代提花技术由经锦至纬锦的演进脉络  

Technical evolution of ancient compound weave from warp-faced compound tabby to weft-faced compound tabby

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作  者:刘育红 田辉 周成飞 LIU Yuhong;TIAN Hui;ZHOU Chengfei(Ethnic Costume Museum,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区:[1]北京服装学院民族服饰博物馆,北京100029

出  处:《毛纺科技》2025年第4期78-85,共8页Wool Textile Journal

基  金:北京市市属高校分类发展-北京服装学院“服装学”新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(11000024T000003073871)。

摘  要:经锦和纬锦是我国古代丝绸的重要品种,为厘清二者与提花机发展之间的联系,以出土古代织锦文物(经锦与纬锦)为研究对象,将组织结构、纹样特点与织机构造相对应,还原织造过程;进一步分析丝绸之路上东西方不同的原材料特点、纺织技术创新与这2种织锦的出现、发展与消失进程之间的逻辑关系,梳理早期彩色提花技术演变历程。研究结果表明,在束综提花技术出现之前,结合多综织机的使用,经锦所代表的经线显花技术在纹样表现和生产效率方面均占有优势,公元7世纪花楼机的出现导致了经锦的消失,并推动纬锦所代表的纬线显花技术蓬勃发展,后来居上。Warp-faced compound tabby and weft-faced compound tabby are important varieties of ancient Chinese silk.To clarify the relationship between these two fabrics and the development of pattern loom,ancient compound weave was used as the research objects to restore the weaving process based on the corresponding organizational structure,pattern characteristics,and weaving mechanism.The different characteristics of raw materials and textile technology innovations between the East and the West on the Silk Road were analyzed,as well as the logical relationship between the emergence,development,and disappearance processes of these two types of tabby,then the development process of ancient colored jacquard technology was sorted out.The research results show that before the appearance of the draw loom system,the use of multiple heddle loom combined with the warp-faced technique represented by the warp-faced compound tabby had advantages in pattern performance and production efficiency.The emergence of the draw loom in the 7th century led to the disappearance of the warp-faced compound tabby and promoted the vigorous development of the weft-faced technique represented by the weft-faced compound tabby,which later surpassed in the dominated position.

关 键 词:古代织锦 多综提花机 低花本机 兹鲁织机 花楼机 

分 类 号:TS145[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]

 

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