宋代褙子的源流与流变考析  

Analysis of the origin and evolution of Beizi in the Song dynasty

作　　者：朱家雨 刘安定 朱翠云 ZHU Jiayu;LIU Anding;ZHU Cuiyun(School of Fashion/The Research Center of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Hubei Province,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院/湖北省非物质文化遗产研究中心,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2025年第2期116-124,共9页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：湖北省教育厅哲学社会科学研究项目(22Y073)。

摘　　要：针对现有宋代褙子源流研究多聚焦文献考据,缺乏多维度验证其源流变化的原因问题,运用文献研究、文物考古(墓葬出土实物)以及图像信息(宋代古籍、传世画)三维印证的研究方法,对宋代褙子的源流与流变发展及其内在原因进行深入研究。研究发现:1)褙子的形成与变化受到文化和时尚的共同影响,其设计基于中单和半臂样式,融合内衣外穿的流行趋势,符合宋代的审美需求而最终形成;2)受程朱理学和封建伦理的深刻影响,宋代褙子款式趋向拘谨和窄小,女式褙子经历了从北宋宽适化到南宋修身化的转变,在袖形上变化丰富,包括大袖、外放型窄袖、收口型窄袖褙子;3)男式褙子在领型上变化多元,主要有斜领交襟、盘领交襟、合领对襟3种样式,反映了宋代对于男性服饰的多样化需求;4)道教的流行进一步加强了褙子与道服之间的联系,使褙子逐渐适应社会需求成为正统化服装,成为承载文化和社会观念的重要象征。The existing research on the origin and evolution of Beizi mainly focuses on documentary textual research,and lacks the multi-dimensional verification of the reasons for its origin and evolution.Aiming at the problem,we conducted an in-depth study on the origin and evolution of Beizi in the Song dynasty and its internal causes by a three-dimension verification method,including documentary research,cultural relics archaeology,and image information.The research findings are as follows:1)The formation and changes of Beizi are jointly influenced by culture and fashion With its design based on the styles of Zhongdan(underrobe)and Banbi(half-sleeved jacket),Beizi integrates the popular trend of wearing underwear outside,and finally evolves to meet the aesthetic needs of the Song dynasty.2)Deeply influenced by Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism and feudal ethics,its styles tend to be restrained and narrow.The female Beizi experienced a transformation from a loose style in the Northern Song dynasty to a slim style in the Southern Song dynasty,with rich changes in sleeve shapes,including wide sleeves,flared narrow sleeves,and tapered narrow sleeves.3)The male Beizi had diverse changes in collar styles,mainly including three styles:oblique collar,disc collar and joint collar,reflecting the diversified needs of male clothing in the Song dynasty.4)The popularity of Taoism further strengthens the connection between the Beizi and Taoist costumes,making the Beizi gradually adapt to social needs,becoming an orthodox clothing and an important symbol carrying cultural and social concepts.

关 键 词：褙子 宋代 源流 流变 

分 类 号：TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K873[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]