高档西服辅料马尾衬整理技术的研究  

Research on finishing technology of horse hair interlining a kind of accessories of top grade suit

作　　者：滑钧凯[1] 刘建勇[1] 

机构地区：[1]天津工业大学纺织与服装学院,天津300160

出　　处：《天津工业大学学报》2003年第1期18-21,共4页Journal of Tiangong University

摘　　要：马尾衬以优异的物理性能和机械性能作为高档西服必要的辅料在国内外广为应用 但是其后整理技术久久得不到解决 ,因而使用受限 ,附加值不高 针对上述问题 ,本研究采用还原剂开键处理、机械处理和化学定型并辅以树脂整理的方法 ,对马尾衬进行了定型加工 所得到的成品定型效果耐久 ,通透性好 ,手感活络 ,抗冲击力大、抗弯曲性强 ,大大提高了马尾衬的功能和附加值 本研究创立的马尾衬的抗滑脱性。Horse hair interlining as a kind of accessories of high grade suits has a extensive use in costume industry for its wonderful physical and mechanical properties. In this paper, the finishing of horse hair interlining which has puzzled China textile circles for long time was solved, an effective finishing technology and processing equipments were developed by the authors. After a series treatments including reductive cross-linking cleavage, mechanical function, chemical setting as well as resin finishing, the interlining was conferred a vivid hand, high ventilative performance, lasting formalization and anti-bending property. The testing methods which have long been vacuum in academic studies about the properties of slipping, and deformation-recovery as well as anti-bending property were set too. It has been proved by commercial practice that the qualities of the new products were improved and reached or beyond the level aboard. The new technology has filled in the gaps in the fields of domestic research and practice.

关 键 词：高档西服 辅料 马尾衬 整理技术 测试方法 

分 类 号：TS195.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程] TS941.498[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]