Protective and Regenerative Anti-Pollution Efficacy of a Plant Oil-Based Day and Night Cream: Investigated by a Novel Approach to Reveal the Impact of Pollutants on Epidermal Barrier Integrity and Lipid Matrix  

作　　者：Dorothee Dähnhardt Stephan Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer Isabel Simon Dana Ditgen Inge Holland Dörte Segger Jürgen Blaak Peter Staib Dorothee Dähnhardt;Stephan Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer;Isabel Simon;Dana Ditgen;Inge Holland;Dörte Segger;Jürgen Blaak;Peter Staib(Microscopy Services Dä,hnhardt GmbH, Flintbek, Germany;Research & Development and Regulatory Affairs, Kneipp GmbH, Wuerzburg, Germany;SGS INSTITUT FRESENIUS GmbH, Hamburg, Germany)

机构地区：[1]Microscopy Services Dä,hnhardt GmbH, Flintbek, Germany [2]Research & Development and Regulatory Affairs, Kneipp GmbH, Wuerzburg, Germany [3]SGS INSTITUT FRESENIUS GmbH, Hamburg, Germany

出　　处：《Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications》2023年第4期302-321,共20页化妆品、皮肤病及应用期刊（英文）

摘　　要：In the wake of ever-increasing environmental pollution, human skin in the modern urban world is exposed to increased levels of harmful environmental pollutants. Many studies have shown that these pollutants can weaken the epidermal skin barrier and thus facilitate the penetration of these substances into the skin. An important goal of modern skin care against harmful environmental influences should therefore be to protect and strengthen the epidermal barrier and to repair occurring damage quickly and efficiently. With this in mind, in the present study we investigated what damage cigarette smoke causes to the epidermal barrier and 1) whether the regular application of a O/W emulsion (Day Cream) can protectively strengthen the epidermal barrier against environmental damage and 2) whether a cigarette smoke-induced disruption of the epidermal barrier is restored faster and better by the regular application of a another O/W emulsion (Night Cream) than in product-untreated skin. The two products are slightly different in plant-oil, active ingredient composition and texture. Firstly, the study has shown that the Lipbarvis^? method is suitable for measuring the effect of cigarette smoke, in contrast to conventional biophysical measurement methods (transepidermal water loss, skin hydration). Secondly, both products were able to improve skin barrier function in the corresponding test scenario. This was demonstrated for both test products by a significantly reduced TEWL, significantly increased skin hydration and significantly improved length of the lipid lamellae in the intercellular space, as well as the protective effect of the day cream on the epidermal skin barrier and the regenerative properties of the tested night cream. .In the wake of ever-increasing environmental pollution, human skin in the modern urban world is exposed to increased levels of harmful environmental pollutants. Many studies have shown that these pollutants can weaken the epidermal skin barrier and thus facilitate the penetration of these substances into the skin. An important goal of modern skin care against harmful environmental influences should therefore be to protect and strengthen the epidermal barrier and to repair occurring damage quickly and efficiently. With this in mind, in the present study we investigated what damage cigarette smoke causes to the epidermal barrier and 1) whether the regular application of a O/W emulsion (Day Cream) can protectively strengthen the epidermal barrier against environmental damage and 2) whether a cigarette smoke-induced disruption of the epidermal barrier is restored faster and better by the regular application of a another O/W emulsion (Night Cream) than in product-untreated skin. The two products are slightly different in plant-oil, active ingredient composition and texture. Firstly, the study has shown that the Lipbarvis^? method is suitable for measuring the effect of cigarette smoke, in contrast to conventional biophysical measurement methods (transepidermal water loss, skin hydration). Secondly, both products were able to improve skin barrier function in the corresponding test scenario. This was demonstrated for both test products by a significantly reduced TEWL, significantly increased skin hydration and significantly improved length of the lipid lamellae in the intercellular space, as well as the protective effect of the day cream on the epidermal skin barrier and the regenerative properties of the tested night cream. .

关 键 词：Skin Care ANTI-POLLUTION Skin Barrier Intercellular Lipid Lamellae Cigarette Smoke 

分 类 号：H31[语言文字—英语]