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出 处:《China Ocean Engineering》2001年第2期269-280,共12页中国海洋工程(英文版)
基 金:This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.59839330 and No.19772031)
摘 要:The 'surface roller' to simulate wave energy dissipation of wave breaking is introduced into the random wave model based on approximate parabolic mild slope equation in this paper to simulate the random wave transportation in chiding diffraction, refraction and breaking in nearshore areas. The roller breaking random wave higher-order approximate parabolic equation model has been verified by the existing experimental data for a plane slope beach and a circular shoal, and the numerical results of random wave breaking model agree with the experimental data very well, This model can be applied to calculate random wave propagation from deep to shallow water in large areas near the shore over natural topography.The 'surface roller' to simulate wave energy dissipation of wave breaking is introduced into the random wave model based on approximate parabolic mild slope equation in this paper to simulate the random wave transportation in chiding diffraction, refraction and breaking in nearshore areas. The roller breaking random wave higher-order approximate parabolic equation model has been verified by the existing experimental data for a plane slope beach and a circular shoal, and the numerical results of random wave breaking model agree with the experimental data very well, This model can be applied to calculate random wave propagation from deep to shallow water in large areas near the shore over natural topography.
关 键 词:breaking wave ROLLER higher-order approximation parabolic mild slope equation random waves
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