针织服装上衣结构特点及其变化规律研究  

The structural characteristicsand the changing laws of knitted garment

作　　者：毛莉莉[1] 李晓燕[1] 刘艳君[2] 李萍[3] 

机构地区：[1]西安工程科技学院服装与艺术设计学院,陕西西安710048 [2]西安工程科技学院纺织与材料学院,陕西西安710048 [3]西安工程科技学院现代教育技术中心,陕西西安710048

出　　处：《西安工程科技学院学报》2004年第4期302-306,共5页Journal of Xi an University of Engineering Science and Technology

摘　　要：建立适应针织服装结构设计的方法体系,以科学、准确地设计针织服装样板.用立体裁剪方法进行了针织面料与机织面料在上衣结构中的对比研究,探索出了针织服装上衣结构特点及其变化规律.在同样贴体款式造型下,针织物的弹性对大多数部位的尺寸变化都有显著影响,只有腰围等少部位的尺寸面料弹性对其变化无显著影响.该结论对揭示针织服装上衣结构特点有重要的理论价值,为科学、准确设计针织服装样板提供了理论依据.In order to design prototype of knitting garment scientifically and accurately, set up a design method system which is suitable for knitting garment. The differences in the structure of garment between woven (fabrics) and knitted fabrics are analysed by means of three-dimensional cutting in this paper. The structural (characteristics) of knitting garments and its variational laws are found. The elasticity of knitting fabrics have (obviously) influence on dimensions of most part compare with woven fabrics of the good fit garment, only (for) a (few) part ,for example waist etc, there are almost no influence on dimensions. The result have an (important) (value) for found knitting garment structural characteristics and provide an theoretic basis for design (prototype) (of) (knitting) garment scientifically and accurately.

关 键 词：针织服装 立体裁剪 针织面料 机织面料 样板设计 结构特点 

分 类 号：TS941.61[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]