倾斜水底上波浪的传播与破碎(第二部分)  

TRANSFORMATION AND BREAKING OF WAVES, ON SLOPING BEACHES (PART 2)

作　　者：文圣常[1] 

机构地区：[1]海洋水文气象系

出　　处：《山东海洋学院学报》1964年第1期31-50,共20页

摘　　要：海岸附近由于深变逐渐变浅所致的波浪破碎，对海岸浸蚀、海港建筑等有很大影响，故在理论、自然界观测、实验等方面曾进行了很多的研究。一些数学家和力学家对倾斜水底上的小振幅波动作了如此广泛的讨论，这种波动问题己完全得到解。Starting from the results obtained in the first part of the paper, an attempt is made to give a systematical discussion on the transformation and breaking of waves on sloping beaches. Breaker heights, breaking depths and other breaker characteristics are calculated with the bottom slope and the wave steepness in deep water as parameters. Theory is compared with observations , the agreement being fairly satisfactory.

关 键 词：海浪传播 孤立波 运动模型 势函数 偏微分方程 

分 类 号：TV139.22[水利工程—水力学及河流动力学] O175.2[理学—数学]