缝纫工艺参数对薄型机织面料缝口缩皱的影响  

Influences of sewing parameter on the woven fabric seam pucker

作　　者：徐蓉蓉[1] 张欣[1] 

机构地区：[1]西安工程科技学院服装与艺术设计学院

出　　处：《西安工程科技学院学报》2006年第2期171-174,179,共5页Journal of Xi an University of Engineering Science and Technology

基　　金：陕西省自然科学基金资助项目(2003F12)

摘　　要：探讨缝纫工艺参数对缝口缩皱的影响,以有效地减轻缝口缩皱程度.采用正交实验方法测试并分析了送布牙高度、压脚压力、缝纫线张力、针迹密度4项缝纫参数对缝口缩皱的影响.实验结果显示,缝纫线张力、针迹密度是对缝口缩皱影响较大的缝纫参数.以这两个缝纫参数做变量,对轻薄类面料的优选缝纫参数进行单因素5水平实验.结果表明,送布牙高度及缝纫线张力宜低;压脚压力及针迹密度无明显规律.缝纫线张力与缝口缩皱呈多项式关系;针迹密度与缝口缩皱量之间没有显著相关性,其关系并不是简单而直线化的.In order to probe into the influences of sewing parameter on the seam pucker, feed dog height, foot pressure, sewing thread tension and stitch density are selected to analyze the effect on seam pucker by orthogonal experiments. Sewing thread tension and stitch density are selected by the result of orthogonal experiments as two variable parameters to study the effect of sewing parameter on seam pucker. Each parameter is divided into five levels. The characteristic of optimizing sewing parameter of thin and light-weight fabric are defined as feed dog height and sewing thread tension should be low. There are no obvious rules for foot pressure and stitch density. The relationship between sewing thread tension and seam pucker presents poly-nomial function. There is no dramatic correlation between stitch density and seam pucker. Their relation is not simple and linear.

关 键 词：缝口缩皱 压脚压力 送布牙高度 缝纫线张力 针迹密度 

分 类 号：TS941.634[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]